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Leather sewing training. Design and modeling of leather products. Relevance of studying leatherwork

Five designers who know how to sew from leather .

Despite the fact that in recent years people have become more and more intolerant of the use of natural fur and leather, there are no fewer fans of these materials - rather, on the contrary. The fashion for leather jackets and skirts, naturally, did not in any way affect the attitude towards the use of natural materials of those designers who zealously defend the rights of pigs and rabbits, like Stella McCartney. However, it should be noted that now, when sales are falling, and customers more often decide to put money in the closet rather than spend it on another necessary or unnecessary thing, those who are directly related to the production of leather items have suffered the least. At the moment, we can easily identify five designers who are famous for their leather items:

It's fair to say that Rick Owens is a man who has honed his leather craft to near perfection. His pieces are full of struggle and drama, and leather is the material that can convey this best.

One of fashion's most respected critics, Sarah Moer, once said, "Rick Owens is a man who has fallen to the dark side," alluding to his obvious color commitment. And indeed, you don’t have to be a fashion expert to understand that black leather is the designer’s favorite material. He still experiments a lot with it, folding and stitching in such a way that it can only take a couple of continuous pieces of fabric to create one jacket.




Of his spring/summer 2010 collection, the designer said simply, “I went lighter,” meaning that he used a lot of leather, dyed in asphalt gray and clinical white.





But as for the men's collection, shown just a week ago in Paris, here again there are mainly variations on the theme of autumn-black shades.





Rick Owens's talent has extended beyond clothing to his Evolution furniture line. In which, however, the leather inserts are almost lost against the background of bone, iron and concrete.





As for Rick Owens himself, looking at him and his lover, Michelle Lamy, it becomes crystal clear: all this manipulation of the skin is a matter of personal preference. It’s not easy to imagine Rick himself without a leather item of clothing. However, a photo from a vacation posted by some unknown person suggests that the designer can still do without him:


Four years ago, both Eddie Slimane and Raf Simmons applied for the position of creative directors of Helmut Lang, however, the choice fell on the inconspicuous married couple Nicole and Michael Colvos, who had previously been exclusively involved in their own denim brand Habitual.



The design duo brought almost nothing new to the brand. Everything they do is a variation on what Helmut Lang himself would do today.

And despite the fact that the company’s policy after a murderous stay in the Prada Group (due to disagreements with which Helmut Lang himself subsequently left his own fashion house) is aimed at democracy in terms of prices, the sharp and elegant silhouettes of Helmut Lang are still nowhere don't share. And leather, as one of the great Austrian’s most favorite materials, is still the basis of Helmut Lang clothing. Digging into the archives bears fruit.





Anne Demeulemeester is a Belgian designer who has earned a very loyal audience of customers thanks to her leather goods.

And if complexly tailored biker jackets and dresses with many pockets are available only to a very narrow circle (nevertheless, the leather is made in such a way that things can last for decades), then the sale of accessories, in particular rough boots and shoes, is actually what allows the brand to remain autonomous and refuse various offers periodically received from the Gucci Group.





And if earlier a person in Ann Demeulemeester boots, meeting another person in the same boots on the street, an accomplice could send him his smile, now the situation is completely opposite. Owners of Ann Demeulemeester shoes often consider other owners of such shoes unworthy. And a seventeen-year-old girl from Texas, Jane Alridge, known for her sea of ​​shoes blog, played a big role in this.




Many critics still accuse the Syrian designer Rad Hourani of blatantly borrowing the ideas of Haider Ackermann and Riccardo Tisci, but even they understand that he will stay on the fashion scene for a long time. He is known primarily for his perfectly tailored vests and trousers with leather inserts.

The young designer’s attitude towards leather is very categorical: “This is a material that should not be worn by just anyone.”


For the past year, his pants with leather inserts have been a thing for which fans of near-gothic aesthetics were willing to pay an additional 30% to customs when ordering them from abroad.





As for Rad Hourani's collections, it is worth noting that leather is truly the main material in his works.





Varduhi Nazaryan is perhaps the only Russian designer who really knows how to work with such a complex material as leather. Leather items from Vardoui Nazarian do not carry any decadent-cemetery theme. Often her silhouettes can be called “girlish” rather than rigid and graphic.



The skin in Varduhi Nazaryan’s collections has some absolutely correct property: you want to touch it, you want to breathe it in. Perhaps the chosen color scheme has an effect. Most often these are caramel, airy, very pure colors.


Training in working with leather. Leather craft courses. Master classes on leatherworking

Dear friends. For everyone who wants to undergo training in various areas of working with leather, our School offers various professional educational programs in the form of one-day seminars and multi-day courses. The classes are taught by experienced professionals with many years of experience, based on proprietary educational methods.

LEATHER CRAFT - BASIC and ADVANCED COURSES

These courses are intended for students with zero or initial specialized level of training who want to gain the most diverse initial skills in working with leather. They take place in the form of group classes, or individually in agreement with

LEATHERWORK - NIGHT SCHOOL

Basic seminars for those wishing to learn how to work with leather in the evening, after work

LEATHER CRAFT PRACTICES

Classes are held individually in agreement with the masters and are intended for students who have completed basic training and want to improve their skill level

Wallets. Design and sewing - Wallet. Design and sewing - Bags. Design and sewing - Scabbard. Design and sewing - Bracelets and jewelry. Design and production - Leather shaping. Basic training - Artistic painting of leather

PROFESSIONAL TRAINING - COURSES AND SEMINARS

For students who want to turn working with leather from a hobby into a source of income. They take place in the form of group classes, or individually in agreement with

ON-GOING TRAINING

Our masters, by agreement, can come to conduct an introductory master class at your company’s event or organize professional training for employees in the workplace

CORRESPONDENCE STUDIES

Do you dream of learning leather craft, but don't have the time or opportunity to attend classes? Then our numerous

How to sign up for training?

During the main classes you will be able to receive the necessary advice on the manufacturing technology of any models that interest you.

The lesson program can be adjusted during the course of study depending on the wishes of the students.

In addition to the main topics, the teacher can perform and explain the technology for making models brought by students to class.

Small groups, combined with detailed and clear explanations from the teacher, will allow you to achieve the best results.

All exercises demonstrated by the teacher in the process of explaining the task, students are allowed to photograph or film.



3. Machine seams
4. Finishing seams.
5. Processing darts.
6. Processing of patch pockets.
7. Processing of welt pockets.
8. Processing loops.
9. Features of the design of leather products.
10. Processing technology for shoulder products.
11. Assembling the main components of the product.
12. Connection of the product with the lining.
13. Processing the slots in the skirt.
14. Processing the pleat in the skirt.
15. Processing of trousers and fasteners in trousers.
16. Processing the vest. Finishing details.

1. Types of leather. Use of leather products.
2. Leather treatment modes. Tailoring rules.
3. Connected seams.
4. Finishing and edging seams.
5. Patch pockets.
6. Welt pockets.
7. Types of bags. Bag designs. Leather sets.
8. Handle and clasp in bags.
9. Cedar processing. Making cosmetics.
10. Making a brick bag.
11. Making a rectangular bag.
12. Making a sack bag.
13. Making a backpack.
14. Making a clutch bag.
15. Development of bag models.
16. Making a wallet. Finishing elements.




We are always up to date with all the latest Russian and world technologies. The training programs of our center are constantly updated and supplemented as new theoretical knowledge and acquired experience emerge.
You will see the results after the first lesson. The skills and technologies taught in the course are the result of many years of practice and successful work of our teachers. If, after completing the courses, you still experience some difficulties in your work, you will always receive free help by calling or visiting our teacher at the department.

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Relevance of studying leatherwork

Creating leather products is one of the most difficult. It requires certain knowledge and skill. Our leather working courses will help you get them. You will be able to improve your professionalism in a fairly short time. Now making various things will not be a problem. The training will be as interesting and useful as possible. In leather you will embody all your ideas. Any of your products will turn out flawless. At the same time, the skills and knowledge of leather craft will be useful for both beginners and experienced craftsmen.

Our Institute of Further Education (Moscow) invites everyone to professional retraining in the field of"Technology and design of leather goods" . After completing leather courses, our students receive a professional training diploma.

Leather sewing classes will be of interest both to those who are taking their first steps in the profession, and to those specialists who want to significantly expand the range of their activities and confidently work with even the most complex products. By improving your qualifications, you will certainly achieve success in your career. Your work will be in demand. If you have your own business in the field of product design and modeling, then our classes will help you competently organize numerous operations with leather (design, embossing, etc.). Having acquired knowledge in the field of model creation technology and practical skills, you will be able to improve your activities and improve your work.

Module name

General

quantity
hours

Including

form of control

Lectures

Practical lessons

Module 1. Drawing. Composition Basics

20

4

shoe model sketches

Skills in creating a sketch (sketching) of a model, basic skills in depicting shoes.

Module 2. Fundamentals of anthropology and biomechanics

20

2

2

test

Modern trends in shoe fashion. Anatomical structure of the foot shape.

Module 3. Materials Science

24

2

test

General characteristics of materials for the production of shoes and work with other products. Materials for external, internal and intermediate parts of the top and bottom of shoes.

Module 4. Design of leather goods

68

8

60

shoe model drawings

Methods for designing footwear of various designs. Methods for obtaining a conditional development of the side surface of the block using the method of the Italian school “Ars-Sutoria”. Designing pump shoes. Design of low shoes with customized boots "Derby". Designing low shoes with a customized Oxford vamp. Design of low shoes with a special method of fastening “Loafers”. Designing low boots with ankle boots and a customized vamp with a cross-lift strap and shaped cut details. Designing pumps with cut-off parts with and without straps. Designing boots with and without zippers. Designing boots and moccasins.

Module 5. Technology of leather products

68

8

64

half pair of shoes

Creation of a prototype shoe sample. Assembling shoe upper blanks. Shoe assembly. Methods for fastening shoes manually. Finishing the shoes. Finishing and painting of shoe uppers. Final decoration of the bottom of the shoe.

Module 6. Equipment

12

2

test

General characteristics of shoe sewing equipment. Equipment, tools and devices for assembling shoes by hand.

Graduation work

40

job protection

TOTAL

252

22

130

Internship at the International School of Shoes and Leather ASSOMAC

For those who have completed training in working with leather, it offers an internship in Italy under the program "Innovative technologies and equipment for the production of footwear and leather".


The internship program is constantly changing and updated. The following companies participate in this project and present seminars and master classes:

  • visiting a unique Shoe Museum(Vigevano)
  • master classes from footwear equipment manufacturing companies demonstrating the capabilities of the equipment within the framework of the exhibition SIMAC TANNING TECH
  • COMELZ- “Innovative cutting complexes for the production of shoes, leather goods and CAD/CAM systems for shoe design”
  • CERIM– “The latest automated equipment for shoe assembly”
  • SABAL– “Innovative equipment and technological techniques for cutting and assembling shoes”
  • GALLI– “Technology for the production of small leather goods”
  • OVERMEC– “Innovative equipment for the production of leather goods”
  • ATOM– “Automated cutting equipment for shoe production”, “Sensor installations for detecting skin defects”
  • S.P.S.- “Mechanized and manual presses for fastening various types of fittings”
  • ORMAC- “The latest automated equipment for shoe molding”
  • interactive seminars on the production of equipment for processing parts of the top and bottom of shoes and visits to workshops for cutting shoe parts and manufacturing assemblies of shoe bottom parts in the company COSMOPOL
  • CAMOGA- “The latest equipment for processing parts of shoe uppers”
  • BRUSTIA- “The latest machines for shoe assembly and quality control”
  • SOLAZZO- “Modern technology for the production of high-quality men's shoes of the LUXE class”
  • BOMBELLI- “Innovative methods for the reconstruction and debugging of modern shoe equipment”
  • GUSBI- “Modern equipment and technological methods for the production of footwear using the injection molding fastening method”
  • BARRERA- “Improving the quality of footwear through the use of the latest methods of temperature and humidity treatment”
  • CICERI- “Features of processing and finishing of exotic leathers”
  • CESARY MARTINOLI CAIMAR- “Secrets of professional craftsmanship in the production of shoes for fashion brands”
  • SAGITTA- “Innovative equipment and technologies for processing parts of shoe uppers”
  • CRISTAL– “Modern technology for the production of high-quality shoes using manual techniques for the Hermes brand”
  • ERRE- “Modern technology for the production of high-quality shoes using manual techniques for the RobertoCavalli brand”
  • VILLA CORTELE- “Innovative equipment and technological methods for creating heels for shoes”
  • AMBROGIO MALINVERNI- “Development of a bag layout for a fashion brand”
  • BIAFER- “Secrets of production of lower parts assemblies using the latest laser technologies”
  • SUPERFLEX s.r.l- “Production of shoe bottom parts for the Hermes brand”
  • VITTORIO VALSECCHI- “Features of the production of premium dress shoes for the brands Chloe, Manolo Blahnik”
  • NEWLAST GROUP- “Innovative integrated technologies for the production of shoe lasts from the NEWLAST GROUP company”
  • LA CALZOLERIA- “Modern technologies for restoration and restoration of the appearance of LUX class shoes”
  • CIMAC- “European methodology for studying the physical, mechanical and chemical properties of shoes and leather for issuing a certificate of conformity”
  • ANGELERI- “Techniques for applying glue in mechanized and automated modes to parts of leather products”
  • NASTROTEX- “Assortment of elastic materials and technologies for their production”
  • FORM.ROMOGNOLO- “Technologies for manufacturing shoe lasts using the CAD/CAM system. Full cycle"
  • NUOVA CARPI- “Production of shoe bottom parts for the Max Mara brand”
  • GINO PACE- “Study of technological techniques and secrets of craftsmanship in the production of tanned leather”
  • MISS-D- “Studying technological techniques and secrets of craftsmanship in the production of women's shoes of the LUXE class”
  • visit to an enterprise producing auxiliary materials for footwear KENDA FARBEN, including consultations with factory specialists on repairing defects in shoes, “Features of repairing defects and imparting special effects in the production of leather and shoes”
  • visiting a specialized exhibition LINEAPELLE and STUDIO della MODA di LINEAPELLE- “Modern and promising types of finishing of natural leather for shoes and clothing” (study of assortment, fashion trends 2020-2021)
  • visit to headquarters ASSOMAC– “The birth and evolution of the Italian footwear industry. Historical excursion”, “Innovative techniques in footwear production”, “Modern technological processes for hand-made footwear of LUXE class”

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