Folk costume of Tatarstan. Men's Tatar costume

The national costume of the Tatars harmoniously combines fabrics of rich “oriental” colors, headdresses with complex and rich ornaments, various types of shoes, and highly artistic jewelry, thus forming a unique system of folk art.

Women's and men's Tatar national clothing

The fundamental elements of clothing were common to all Tatars. A common feature of the Tatar national costume was its trapezoidal shape. The Tatars wore long, wide, tunic-like shirts and swinging outerwear with a solid, fitted back.

The basis of the Tatar costume for men and women was a shirt (kulmek) and trousers (yshtan).

Until the middle of the 19th century, the ancient tunic-like shirt was common among the Tatars; it was sewn from a straight cloth folded across, without shoulder seams, with gussets, inserted side gussets and a slit in the center of the chest. Among the Kazan Tatars, a shirt with a stand-up collar predominated.

The Tatar shirt differed from other tunic-like shirts in its length and width. It was very loose, knee length, with long wide sleeves and was never belted.

The women's shirt differed from the men's only in length - it reached almost to the ankles.

Wealthy Tatar women could afford to sew shirts from expensive purchased fabrics - silk, wool, cotton and brocade. Such shirts were decorated with flounces, multi-colored ribbons, lace, and braid.

An integral part of the ancient women's shirt was the lower bib (kukrekche, tesheldrek). It was worn downwards under a low-cut shirt to hide the opening on the chest that opened when moving.

Pants (ishtan) are a widespread form of Turkic belt clothing "pants with a wide step."

Men's trousers were usually made of striped fabric (motley), while women wore plain ones. Elegant holiday or wedding men's trousers were made from homespun fabric with small bright patterns.

The outerwear of the Tatars was loose. It was sewn from factory fabric (cotton, wool), cloth, canvas, homespun fabric and fur. The outerwear was sewn with a one-piece fitted back, with wedges on the sides and a right-hand wrap. Such clothes include (sleeveless or short-sleeved) a camisole, which was a type of home clothing, a kazakin - a type of demi-season clothing, a bishmet - winter outerwear insulated with cotton wool or sheep's wool, chabuly chikmen - work clothes made of homespun cloth, chabuly tun - a fur coat , often covered with fabric. To visit the mosque, men wore a chapan.

An integral attribute of Tatar outerwear was the belt. Belts were made from homespun fabric, from factory fabric, and less commonly, knitted ones.

Women's outerwear differed from men's only in decorative details. When sewing women's clothing, they used fur trim, embroidery, braiding, and decorative stitching.

Women often wore a camisole over their shirt. The camisole was considered summer home or weekend wear, depending on the decoration. Camisoles were made long to the knees or short to the hips, with or without sleeves, with a high collar or with a deep neckline on the chest. The edges of the hem, sleeve armholes, and collars of the camisole were decorated with braid, stripes of braid, bird feathers and fur. Then, in the eastern regions, the camisole began to be decorated with coins.

Ignatiev Vadim Sergeevich

Project work. Tatar folk costume

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Municipal budgetary educational institution

Alekseevskaya secondary school No. 1

Alekseevsky municipal district

Republic of Tatarstan

II All-Russian Local History Competition

"The beauty of the native land"

Nomination: “National Costume”

Topic: National costume of the Tatar people!

Work completed:

6th grade student

MBOU Alekseevskaya secondary school No. 1

Ignatiev Vadim Sergeevich

Supervisor:

Shaikhutdinova Liliya Magfurovna,

teacher of Tatar language and literature

p.g.t. Alekseevskoe

2016

The history of the Tatar national costume dates back to the middle of the 18th century, but the outfit that has survived to this day was formed a little later, approximately in the 19th century. The Tatar outfit was influenced by the Volga Tatars and the traditions of the peoples of the East. Since Tatar women learned sewing and embroidery from a young age, when making clothes, they put all their skill and patience into it, and the result was very beautiful and feminine costumes.

The Tatar national costume tells about a person’s individual traits, his character and aesthetic tastes. By clothing you can determine the age and social status of its owner. Folk costume is the most striking indicator of a person’s nationality.

Women's and men's national clothing of the Tatars

The basis of the costume for men and women was a shirt (kulmek) and trousers (yshtan).

The women's costume consists of a long, tunic-like shirt with long sleeves and a long, open outer garment with a continuous frame. The bottom of the shirt and sleeves were decorated with flounces. A sign of nationality is monumentality, and among women it was manifested in massive jewelry that was everywhere: on the chest, on the arms, on the ears.

Women wore a sleeveless vest or camisole over their shirt, which was made of colored or plain velvet, and the sides and bottom of the camisole were decorated with gold braid or fur.

Wealthy Tatar women could afford to sew shirts from expensive purchased fabrics - silk, wool, cotton and brocade. Such shirts were decorated with flounces, multi-colored ribbons, lace, and braid.

An integral part of the ancient women's shirt was the lower bib (kukrekche, tesheldrek). It was worn downwards under a low-cut shirt to hide the opening on the chest that opened when moving.

Pants (ishtan) are a widespread form of Turkic belt clothing "pants with a wide step."

Men's trousers were usually made of striped fabric (motley), while women wore plain ones. Elegant holiday or wedding men's trousers were made from homespun fabric with small bright patterns.

An integral attribute of Tatar outerwear was the belt. Belts were made from homespun fabric, from factory fabric, and less commonly, knitted ones.

Women's outerwear differed from men's only in decorative details. When sewing women's clothing, they used fur trim, embroidery, braiding, and decorative stitching.

Women often wore a camisole over their shirt. The camisole was considered summer home or weekend wear, depending on the decoration. Camisoles were made long to the knees or short to the hips, with or without sleeves, with a high collar or with a deep neckline on the chest. The edges of the hem, sleeve armholes, and collars of the camisole were decorated with braid, stripes of braid, bird feathers and fur. Then in the eastern regions the camisole began to be decorated with coins.

Tatar national headdresses.

The main element of the national costume was the headdress. The headdress could be used to determine a woman's age, as well as her social and marital status. Unmarried girls wore white kalfaks, and they all had the same ones. For married ladies, headdresses differed by clan. Women always wore scarves, shawls or bedspreads over their kalfak.

By the way, the kalfaks were also different. Some were somewhat reminiscent of a skullcap, also decorated and embroidered with gold threads; another type had a rag pointed end, to which was attached a fringe of gold threads, hanging slightly forward towards the face.

Men's hats are quite simple and were mainly divided into weekend (upper) and home (lower) hats. The lower or home ones include the skullcap (tүbәtәy) - this is a very small cap that was put on the top of the head, and on top of it they wore a turban, fur and fabric hats - bureks and felt hats. There were also differences in men's attire.

For example, young people wore skullcaps with embroidered bright colors, while adult men preferred more modest colors. Over time, the shape of the skullcap changed, and skullcaps with a flat top and a hard band appeared, which have survived to this day. Now anyone can bring a skullcap from Kazan and give it as a souvenir to their friends or relatives.

National Tatar shoes

Tatars wore stockings. They were sewn from cloth or knitted from woolen threads. The most ancient and widespread stockings were cloth stockings (tula oek). They were made from homespun white cloth and worn with bast or leather shoes.

Top national Tatar shoes Yu there were boots (chitek), ichigi.

High boots made of soft leather and with soft soles were made of morocco, yuft and chrome. Leather shoes were worn by wealthy townspeople and the clergy.

Everyone wore black ichigs, only women had them shorter and without lapels. Festive Tatar shoes for women were patterned yekayul chitek, made using the traditional leather mosaic technique. Shoes made using the mosaic technique are specific to the Tatar people.

When leaving the house, the ichigi wore short leather shoes. In winter they wore half felt boots. They also wore leather boots with hard soles.

Everyday Tatar footwear was galoshes. Shoes were considered the go-to shoe. Women's shoes were patterned, often with heels. Shoes with a sharp, slightly raised toe were considered traditional.

The work shoes were bast shoes (chabata), as they were lighter and more comfortable when working in the field.

In winter they wore felt boots, short and high.

National Tatar jewelry

Jewelry was worn by both men and women. Men wore rings, signet rings, and belt buckles. Women's jewelry was much more varied, due to the Muslim tradition of judging a man's condition by the wealth of clothing and jewelry of his women.

Women's head decoration was a braid. They were very diverse in shape, material, finishes and ways of wearing.

A more ancient type of Tatar jewelry was earrings. They began to be worn early - at the age of three or four and continued to be worn until old age. Earrings with pendants are an integral part of the national costume of the Tatars. In addition to their own traditional earrings, Tatar women borrowed jewelry from the Russian, Caucasian peoples, Central Asia and Kazakhstan. Astrakhan Tatar women wore ring earrings, three-bead earrings, and nose rings as facial adornment.

Tatar women also wore neck-chest decorations, which, in addition to their decorative function, were a purely practical element of clothing. Such bibs fastened parts of clothing together, and also covered the traditionally deep neckline on the chest.

Another unusual Tatar decoration was the baldric. This decoration, like a ribbon on a fabric base, was worn over the shoulder. For Muslim women, such a sling was usually equipped with special pockets where they hid texts from the Koran. In other regions, not so committed to Islamic canons, cowrie shells performed a protective function. Despite the only function of this decoration - security, they, like other decorations, were extremely varied in shape and decoration.

Result: The history of the creation of the Tatar national costume has come quite a long way, but despite this, the traditions of this people have been preserved to this day, and although modern society wears more European clothes, nevertheless, from time to time on holidays women and men dress up in their traditional costumes and remember the history of their people.

Of course, now national costumes can only be found in a museum, at an exhibition, on stage or at a holiday. True, to this day the Tatar art of national costume is developing and creating not only modern clothes in the national style, but also coming up with new images for theatrical productions, folklore and dance ensembles.

Undoubtedly, by using more and more images associated with traditional costumes, we enable our memory to preserve our original national traditions.

References:

3. http://nacekomie.ru/forum/viewtopic.php?f=47&t=9035

4. D.M. Iskhakov “Ethnography of the Tatar people.” -Kazan: Magarif, 2004.

Tatar costumes | Tatar national (folk) clothing

History of the Tatar national costume Beautiful elegant women's and men's suits with patterns, videos and photos, pictures and descriptions, handmade trim. The most common outfits of the Tatar people, what did they wear, what was the fashion?

Tatar national costume - traditional clothing of the Tatars

The basis Tatar costume consists of kulmek (shirt-dress) and trousers, as well as beshmet, chekmen and kazakin. A robe was often worn as outerwear.

The word robe comes from the Arabic word hilgat, the outer element of work clothing. There was also choba - light, unlined outerwear. It was usually sewn from home-made linen or hemp fabrics, just below the knee length.

Chekmen - fitted, long-skirted, peasant demi-season clothing. For girls, the decoration of the costume was a vest or apron.
Tatars, regardless of age and gender, predominantly wore double-breasted clothes with a right-sided (Turkic) wrap, with a solid fitted back (chabuly kiy), with wedges on the sides below the waist. It was usually sewn with a tightly closed collar and cut out shoulders. . One of the most archaic types of such clothing is choba - light homespun from pure white or finely striped linen or hemp fabric for men and multi-colored for women.
The outerwear of the Tatars was swinging with a continuous fitted back. A sleeveless (or short-sleeved) camisole was worn over the shirt. Women's camisoles were made from colored, often plain, velvet and decorated on the sides and bottom with braid and fur. Over the camisole, men wore a long, spacious robe (zhilen) with a small shawl collar. It was sewn from factory-made plain or striped (usually heavy semi-silk) fabric and belted with a sash. In the cold season they wore beshmets, chikmeni, covered or tanned fur coats.

The headdress of men was a four-wedge, hemispherical skullcap (tubetey) or in the form of a truncated cone (kelapush). The festive velvet braided skullcap was embroidered with tambour, satin stitch (usually gold embroidery) embroidery. On top of the skullcap (women's bedspread embroidered with a vestibule - erpek) in cold weather they wore a hemispherical or cylindrical fur or simply quilted hat (burek), and in the summer a felt hat with lowered brims.

In earlier times, a woman's headdress, as a rule, contained information about the age, social and marital status of its owner. Girls wore soft white kalfaks, woven or knitted. Married women threw light blankets, silk shawls, and scarves over them when leaving the house. They also wore forehead and temple decorations - strips of fabric with sewn plaques, beads, and pendants.

A mandatory part of women's clothing was a veil. This tradition reflected ancient pagan views on the magic of hair, later consolidated by Islam, which recommended hiding the outlines of the figure and covering the face. In the 19th century, the veil was replaced by a scarf, a universal headdress for almost the entire female population of Russia. However, women of different nationalities wore it differently.

Tatar women tied their heads tightly, pulling the scarf deep over the forehead and tying the ends at the back of the head - this is how they wear it even now.

Traditional Tatar shoes- leather ichigs and shoes with soft and hard soles, often made of colored leather. Festive women's ichigs and shoes were decorated in the style of multicolor leather mosaic. The work shoes were bast shoes of the Tatar type (Tatar chabata): with a straight-braided head and low sides. They were worn with white cloth stockings (tula oek).

National characteristics in clothing can be seen most clearly in the women's Tatar costume, due to the emotionality of women and their inner need for beauty. Despite all its exotic colors, it does not fall out of the general global fashion trend: the desire for a fitted silhouette, the rejection of large planes of white, the widespread use of longitudinal flounce, the use of voluminous flowers, braids, and jewelry in decoration.
Tatar clothing is characterized by a traditional trapezoidal silhouette with “oriental” color saturation, an abundance of embroidery, and the use of a large number of decorations.
Since ancient times, the Tatars have valued the fur of wild animals - black and brown fox, marten, sable, beaver.

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IN Tatar national costumes Predominant patterns: green, yellow, red, black, brown, blue and white
color are the most common and revered.

Tatar costume and a wide range of national clothing of various subgroups of Tatars.

— Asterkhan Tatarlar costumes
— Kereshen Tatarlar costumes
— Mishar Tatarlar costumes
— Kasym Tatarlar costumes
— Kazan Tatarlar costumes
— Tuban Novgorod mishar tatarlar costumes
— Orenburg Tatarlar costumes
— Perm Tatarlar costumes
— Samara Tatarlar costumes
— Seber Tatarlar costumes

National Tatar clothing - hats, shoes, jewelry

The Tatar folk costume has gone through a long path of historical development. Naturally, clothing of the 8th-9th centuries differs significantly from the costume of the 19th century. But even in modern times one can find national traits: an increasing number of people today are becoming interested in history. In this article we will look at Tatar folk costumes. Their description will be given taking into account changes over time and territorial features. In addition, we will tell you about the jewelry used by the Tatars.

What can a suit tell us?

The Tatar folk costume (we will describe its features and characteristics below) can tell us a lot. Clothing is the most striking defining element by which people are classified as a particular nation. The costume also embodies the concept of the ideal image of a person who is a representative of a particular country. It can tell about the age, individual characteristics, character, social status, aesthetic tastes of the person wearing it. Clothes at different times intertwined a particular people, their moral standards and the desire for perfection and novelty, which is natural for humans.

Features of the Tatar women's costume

It should be noted that national characteristics are most clearly visible in women's costume. Since representatives of the fair sex are more emotional and have a greater need for beauty, their clothing differs not only among the Tatars in its extreme originality.

Women's Tatar folk costume is distinguished by its exotic colors. It is characterized by a fitted silhouette, extensive use of longitudinal flounce, voluminous colors in decoration, as well as jewelry and braid.

The silhouette of Tatar clothing is traditionally trapezoidal. The Tatar folk costume is decorated with embroidery. It is also characterized by the oriental richness of various colors and the use of many decorations. Both women's and men's Tatar folk costumes are decorated with beaver, sable, marten, and black-brown fox furs, which have always been highly valued.

The basis of women's and men's national costume

The basis of women's and men's costumes are pants (in Tatar - ishtan), as well as a shirt (kulmek). Common until the mid-19th century was a tunic-like ancient shirt, which was made from a straight panel folded across, with gussets, without shoulder seams, with a slit on the chest and inserted side gussets. A shirt with a stand-up collar prevailed among the Kazan Tatars. The Tatar one differed from others in width and length. It was very loose, knee-length, never belted, and had wide long sleeves. Only the length differed between women's and men's. The length of the women's was almost to the ankles.

Only wealthy Tatar women could afford to sew shirts from purchased expensive fabrics. They were decorated with braid, lace, multi-colored ribbons, and flounces. The Tatar folk costume (women's) included a lower bib (tesheldrek, kukrekche) as an integral part in ancient times. It was worn under a shirt with a cutout to hide the chest that opened when moving.

Yshtan (pants) is a common form of belted Turkic clothing. As a component, it included, as we have already noted, both women's and men's Tatar folk costume. Usually they were sewn from motley (striped fabric) and women wore mostly plain ones. Elegant wedding or holiday men's dresses were made from homespun fabric with bright small patterns.

Tatar shoes

The most ancient type of footwear among the Tatars were leather boots, as well as shoes without a welt, similar to modern slippers, which necessarily had toes turned up, since one should not scratch Mother Earth with the toe of a boot. They were worn with canvas or cloth stockings called tula oek.

Even in the times of the ancient Bulgars, the processing of wool and yuft, made by them, reached a very high level and were called “Bulgar goods” in the markets of Asia and Europe. Archaeologists find such shoes in layers dating back to the 10th-13th centuries. Even then it was decorated with appliqué, embossing, and shaped metal overlays. Ichigi boots have survived to this day - traditional soft shoes, very comfortable and beautiful.

Changes in national costume at the end of the 19th century

Clothing technology changed at the end of the 19th century. The possibility of organizing sewing production in large volumes ensured the spread of sewing machines. This was immediately reflected in the style of clothing: the Tatar folk costume changed. Functionality began to prevail in men's clothes. It was achieved due to the partial loss of decorative color.

Chekmeni, Cossacks, camisoles, and fur coat coverings were made from various factory-made fabrics in dark shades. Gradually the Cossacks approached the frock coat. The clothes of the St. Petersburg Tatar were connected with the national one only by a low stand-up collar. But older residents continued to wear camisoles and Cossacks made of colored Bukhara fabrics.

The men also abandoned brocade gilyans. They began to be made from moderately bright silk and cotton plain materials in green, light brown, beige and yellow. Such gilyans, as a rule, were decorated with hand-shaped stitching.

Men's hats

Fur hats with a flat top and cylindrical shape were very popular. They were sewn entirely from astrakhan fur or from a strip of sable, marten, or beaver fur with a fabric bottom. They wore a skull cap, called a kalyapush, along with a hat. It was made mainly of velvet in dark shades and was both embroidered and smooth.

As Islam spread, the tradition of trimming or shaving off the mustache and beard, as well as shaving the head, took root among men. The Bulgars had a custom of covering it with hats. They were described by Ibn Fadlan, a traveler who visited these tribes in the 10th century.

Also, the women's Tatar folk costume is gradually becoming more practical and lightweight. Cotton, silk and woolen fabrics are used, camisoles are made from brocade with small patterns applied to it, and later from velvet and brocade, more elastic materials.

Women's hats

In ancient times, a woman's headdress usually contained information about the family, social and age status of its owner. White soft sweatshirts, knitted or woven, were worn by girls.

Their clothing also includes temple and forehead decorations - fabric strips with sewn pendants, beads, and plaques.

Women's folk Tatar costume (see photo above) included a bedspread as a mandatory part. The tradition of wearing it reflected the pagan views of antiquity about the magic of hair, which were later consolidated by Islam. According to this religion, it was recommended to cover the face and also hide the outlines of the figure.

How did Tatar women wear a headscarf?

The veil was replaced in the 19th century by a scarf, which was a universal headdress for almost the entire female population of our country at that time.

But women of different nationalities wore it differently. Tatar women, for example, tied their heads tightly, pulling a scarf deep over their foreheads and tying the ends at the back of their heads. And now they wear it like this. Even at the beginning of the 20th century, Tatar women in St. Petersburg wore kalfakis, which had shrunk to approximately the size of tattoos, and were held on their heads using small hooks sewn from the inside out.

Only the girls wore the kalfak; married ladies threw light blankets, scarves, and silk shawls over it when leaving the house. To this day, Tatar women have retained the habit of wearing a shawl, skillfully draping their figure with this item of clothing.

This is what a Tatar folk costume looks like. Its coloring is multicolored. The most common colors in national patterns are black, red, blue, white, yellow, brown, green, etc.

Jewelry of the Tatars

Interesting is not only the Tatar folk costume itself, the photo of which was presented above, but also the decorations used by the Tatars. Women's jewelry was an indicator of the social status and material wealth of the family. They were made, as a rule, of silver and inlaid with stones. At the same time, preference was given to bluish-green turquoise, which, according to the Tatars, had magical powers. This stone was considered a symbol of prosperity and happiness. The symbolism of turquoise is associated with the eastern beliefs of antiquity: as if these were the bones of long-dead ancestors, the correct contemplation of which makes a person happy.

Brown carnelian, lilac amethysts, rock crystal and smoky topazes were also often used. Women wore bracelets of various types, as well as bracelets, various collar fasteners, called yak chylbyry. Even at the end of the 19th century, a chest belt was obligatory, which was a synthesis of decoration and amulet.

In the family, jewelry was inherited, gradually supplemented with new things. Komeshche - that’s what Tatar jewelers were called - usually worked on individual orders. This led to a huge variety of objects that have survived to this day.

How did you wear the jewelry?

A Tatar woman traditionally wore several of them at the same time - various chains with watches, pendants, and always one with a hanging Koran. These decorations were complemented by brooches and beads. Having undergone minor changes, many elements of Tatar jewelry came into use among representatives of other nationalities.

It is difficult to determine a single type of Tatar national costume, because there are many subgroups of Tatars. The formation of the national image in clothing was influenced by eastern peoples, Islam, and the features of the national costume of the Volga Tatars.

Like the traditional costumes of all other peoples, national clothing has gone through a long and difficult path of historical development.

The national costume of the Tatars presents a harmonious combination of fabrics in bright “oriental” colors, headdresses with complex patterns, shoes of various types and purposes, and elegant and complex jewelry. Due to all these elements, the special character of national Tatar clothing is formed.

Elements of the national Tatar costume

The basis of the traditional Tatar costume is trousers (ishtan) and a shirt-dress (kulmek). A caftan or robe was traditionally worn over the shirt. Moreover, the word “robe” itself has Arabic roots and is very consonant with a similar element of Arab clothing - khilgat.

Tatars also often wore choba. It was a light outer garment without lining, reaching a length just below the knee. Usually it was sewn from linen or hemp fabrics.

Usually, the outer swinging clothing of the Tatars did not have fasteners, so an undoubted attribute of the national costume is the belt. It could equally be made from cloth or knitted from wool.

Another distinctive feature of Tatar clothing was its trapezoidal shape. As well as the large size and amazing brightness of the fabrics. It was typical to wear a large amount of jewelry, which only added brightness to the image.

Women's traditional clothing

Tatar was more diverse than men's. It varied not only by seasonal periods, but also by purpose (everyday, holiday), and even by age. It was in women's traditional clothing that the territorial characteristics of a particular subgroup of the Tatars were more clearly visible.

The basis of women's traditional costume was a shirt, trousers and a lower bib. Camisoles and bishmets were also often used. A camisole was a short sleeveless garment, most often fitted, in contrast to the male version of the camisole. And bishmet is a caftan with long sleeves and a fitted back. It was often made of velvet and trimmed with fur. It was fastened with a large silver clasp, which also served an aesthetic function.

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Tatar national costume

The Tatar national costume is a vivid expression of folk art. It includes the production of fabrics, tailoring and decorating clothes, the creation of complex and richly decorated headdresses, the production of shoes and unique jewelry.

Instructions

National characteristics can be seen most clearly in women's attire. The traditional costume is characterized by a trapezoidal silhouette, rich colors, and an abundance of embroidery and decoration. Clothing in most cases consisted of a long tunic-like shirt and a swinging outer dress with long sleeves and a fitted back. An obligatory part of a woman's outfit was a bib, which was worn under a shirt with a deep neckline on the chest. Wide trousers were worn under the shirt. Outerwear was richly decorated with embroidery, trimmed with valuable fur, and decorated with beads and small coins.

Men's clothing also consisted of a shirt, which was much shorter than women's, and wide pants, usually made of striped fabric. The men's top was swinging and repeated the silhouette of the women's, but the hems of the camisole reached the knees, and it was often sewn with short sleeves or no sleeves at all. Bishmet, a winter caftan, was insulated with cotton wool or sheep's wool. A mandatory attribute of the Tatar men's costume was a belt. It could be homespun or sewn from factory fabric; knitted belts were less commonly used.

Tatar headdresses were divided into home (lower) and weekend (upper) hats. In the house they wore a skullcap - a small one on the top of the head. Depending on the time of year, cloth, felt or fur hats were worn over the skullcap. Representatives of the Islamic clergy among the Tatars wore turbans.