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Knitted socks with cats. Grandma's socks "Red cat". Let's knit together online. But it turns out my step-by-step MK. Cats - patterns for jacquard

Good day, dear handicraftsmen!!
My name is Irina, this is my first experience of conducting an online event (so, don’t be too strict, I will be happy with correct comments)


These are the socks I knitted for my eldest granddaughter (she will be 5 years old in two weeks)
And I still need to knit my youngest granddaughter (also soon 5 years old) and grandson (2 years old).
Simple ones with stripes are somehow boring to knit. These are the socks we came up with.
I’ll say right away that I liked Nastyusha very much. Warm, not prickly and, most importantly, cheerful.
So I decided, why not connect with you in a friendly company.
Here is such a small presentation))))

Shall we knit together?

134 users took part in the survey.

So, let's begin.

Knitting for kids(can be used for girls and boys of kindergarten age) My socks are designed for a 5-year-old girl.

We knit with knitting needles. Stocking knitting needles 5 pieces, diameter 2.5 mm.

Yarn. Usually socks are knitted from leftovers. But, like a true grandmother, I purchased Rasskazov yarn a year ago. Including especially for socks.

As you can see in the picture, the yarn is thin. Meterage 600 meters in 100 grams.
I knitted it using two threads from two balls (I never wind two threads into one ball; due to the different tension of the threads, the fabric may turn out clumsy)
You can use other yarn. The main thing is to calculate the number of loops after the knitted pattern, which we will discuss below.

Knitting technique: Italian cast-on stitches, knitting in the round, double heel knitting, wedge knitting, turn knitting, intarsia, loop embroidery. (We will try to jointly describe the process in detail in each case).
Girls, your skills and advice are welcome.

Size:. We take the following measurements:
-Leg circumference for toe width: My option is to measure the leg circumference at the expected toe height and measure the foot circumference at the widest part. And choose the average. (in my case 19 cm)
-Sock height: measurement from the beginning of the heel to the expected height (in my case: elastic band - 5 cm, stockinette stitch - 5 cm, heel itself -5 cm) Total 15 cm (this time I decided to knit high socks, under boots) You can do less. The main thing is to leave 5 cm on the heel, 5 on the front surface. Believe me, a deep heel sits better on the leg).
-Length of the toe along the foot: from the beginning of the heel to the end of the little toe. In theory - to the middle of the little finger, but in our case, the decrease in the toe will be in each row). In my case 17.5 cm.

For today:
We knit a sample using stockinette stitch. I cast on 30 stitches and knitted 20 rows. We wash and dry the sample.
Tomorrow we do the calculations and start knitting.
Good evening to everyone. Till tomorrow

Second day:

So the sample is tied and dried.
Let's do calculation:
My pattern has 30 loops, which is 11.5 cm wide; 20 rows -4.5 cm long.

We make up the proportion: 19x30:11.5=49.5, I decided to round up to 48 loops. Although according to all the rules you need to round up. But she took a risk and didn’t miscalculate. The socks fit tightly on the leg. After all, I initially planned for my granddaughter to wear them with boots.
It’s also convenient - 12 stitches per stocking needle.

Let's start knitting.
Take a waste (contrast) thread. Here’s some advice: it’s better to take a cotton thread (it will be easier to weave)
We cast on half as many loops using waste thread in the usual way on stocking needles, i.e. 24 loops plus one loop for closing in a circle. i.e. 25 loops. We tie both ends of the thread into a knot. We cut the contrast thread - we won't need it anymore.
We take out one of the knitting needles.
Knitting first row with white thread already in a circle. The first loop is a knit stitch, then a yarn over, a knit stitch, a yarn over, etc. There are 12 loops on the knitting needle, the last one is a yarn over. And we do this with each of the 4 knitting needles.
We move on to knitting in the round, that is, we distribute 49 loops onto 4 knitting needles, 12 loops on each. The last one has 13 loops. We make sure that when closing the circle into the “well” the loops do not twist. A waste (contrast) thread will help us with this - this edge should be, as it were, inside our well.
We will conventionally designate the needles as 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th.
So on the 4th needle there are 13 stitches, the last one is knit. From the left 1st knitting needle we transfer this knit stitch to the right 4th knitting needle. And we pull the removed left loop through the right one and return it to the 1st knitting needle. This stretched loop will be the first in the next, second row.
Second row:
Third row: knit the knit stitches, remove the purl stitches without knitting, thread BEFORE work.
Fourth row: We remove the knit stitches (thread BEHIND the work) and purl the yarn overs.
This is the Italian set. I learned from this great post:

But during wearing, the elastic band stretched. Now I decided to knit with a 2x2 rib.

To do this, in the fifth row you need to change the loops as follows: We knit the first loop of the 1st knitting needle, we remove the second purl on an additional knitting needle (or like me, on a broken plastic needle) AT work, we knit the third loop with the knit, we knit the removed second purl, the fourth - purl , fifth-facial; remove the sixth purl stitch onto an additional needle BEHIND the work

For control: at the beginning of each knitting needle there are 2 knits, at the end there are 2 purls.

Next we knit with a 2x2 elastic band to a height of 4-5 cm.
Girls, for those who are not good with stocking needles, advice: knit one needle, move it under the bottom of the next one. Get used to it later and like clockwork))))
We knitted an elastic band - I got 20 rows.
.

Next we knit in the round using stockinette stitch with white thread. Also 20 rows.
I've already knitted it. I didn't take a photo. I looked at the previous ones - the quality is bad. It's because of the lighting. It's a gray day outside, raining.
Tomorrow we will start knitting the heel.
Good evening everyone.

Day three

So we knitted 20 rows in stockinette stitch with white yarn:

The essence of the “double” heel: in the front row we knit one knit stitch, remove the second one without knitting and so on until the end of the row, in the purl row we knit all the loops purlwise.

First row of heel: knit (edge), knit, remove third knit without knitting, etc. until the end of the 1st and 2nd knitting needles.

The photo shows: the white loops are removed, the red loops are knitted. We turn the work and knit all the loops purlwise. Moreover, we knit the purl loops with a trace. way: removed from the back wall, knitted from the front. The edge loops should form a path (braid) Avoid knots (we still need to cast on loops along the edge)

Somewhere on the fifth row the first and second knitting needles can be combined

Having knitted 5 cm (22 rows) in this way, we begin to form the rounding of the heel:

We have 24 loops on the knitting needle. We divide them into 3 parts. it turns out 8 loops. And with this calculation we mark the loops of the central part with markers (8 loops)
It turns out 8-8-8 (eight central and 8 side stitches) Remove the edge loops at the beginning of the row. The last stitch at the end of the row is a purl stitch.
The heel is rounded by decreasing the side (8) loops of the heel. We start decreasing on the wrong side.
To do this, in the purl row we knit 8 side loops, 8 central loops, and purl the next two loops together. We are turning the work around. We remove the first loop, knit 8 loops of the central part, knit the next two loops together with a tilt to the left (slip the first one without knitting, and pull the next one through it). Don't forget about the drawing in the central part.
We are unfolding the work. remove the first purl stitch, then knit 8 central purl loops, the next two purl stitches together. Then we repeat decreases until there are 10 loops left on the knitting needle. Everything - the heel has been formed.

We transfer 5 loops to another knitting needle and along the edge of the side part (we cast on loops from the edge braid. I got 12 cast on plus 5. It turned out to be 17.
We leave the red thread, knit 24 loops with white yarn from two “bored” knitting needles. Here the nuance is this: we will not knit the foot in a circular pattern, because we need a red sole, and the top of the sock should be white. Therefore, we will knit with intarsia.
So, we knit 24 with white yarn and unroll the knitting. Another tip - for a neater junction of the white and red yarn, transfer a pair of white loops to the red loops on an adjacent knitting needle.
Having unfolded the work, we knit the purl row of 24 loops of red color, cross the white and red threads, knit 17 loops of the side and central parts.
Next we knit 5 heel stitches. Using another knitting needle we lift (DO NOT PAST ON) 12 side heel loops. Like this:

The photo shows that 5 loops are knitted, the thread is in front of the raised loops. We purl these 12 stitches.
Turn the knitting. We have the front side. As a result: on the 1st knitting needle there are 17 loops of red yarn. On the 2nd - 17 loops of red yarn plus 2 loops of white, on the third 10, on the 4th - 12. The cut is formed by turning knitting between the 1st and 4th needles.
Again a nuance. The knitting needles should have an equal number of stitches, 12 on each. When lifting the loops on the first and second knitting needles, there were more loops -17, as if 5 extra loops. So we will decrease them at the beginning of the 1st and at the end of the 2nd knitting needle in each front row.. This decrease is knitting a “wedge”.
We decrease the extra “red” loops. way: the first edge, then decrease with a tilt to the right, remove one loop, knit the elastic one, and with the left knitting needle pull the removed one through the knitted one. Next, knit to the end of the first needle and to the end of the second, without knitting 3 loops.. Unfold two loops and knit together behind the front wall. The last one is the front one.
Next, cross, two white loops, then 22 loops from the 3rd and 4th needles. The last loop is a purl stitch.
Turn knitting inside out. We do not make any decreases on the wrong side.
In this way we decrease until we have 24 red loops left. Well, whites remain the same.
This is what the wedge looks like:

And this is the wrong side, you can see the interweaving of white and colored threads:

Day four

I have another idea here. You can knit the sole in stripes. There will be a red tabby cat. (I will do this when I knit my grandson)

So, we continue to knit the sole.
Let's decide on the size. My foot length is 17.5.
The heel measures 3.5 cm. The pattern from the beginning of the ears is 25 rows (5 cm). 17.5-3.5-5=9 cm.
Thus, from the side line of the heel we knit 9 cm with intarsia.

After this, we begin to knit the ears on the white part of the fabric. To do this, I unwound about a meter of white yarn and two red threads.
And here is the drawing itself.

Sorry for the quality of the diagram. I also made a diagram in a Word file, but I couldn’t insert it into the text. Can someone tell me how to insert it.
But for now we have.
Here are my explanations for the diagram. A cross is a red thread, an empty square is a white thread.

Day five:
So we knitted 9 cm of the foot fabric with intarsia.
In the white part of the canvas we begin to knit a pattern. That is, after 24 loops of red yarn, cross, knit 6 loops of white, the next 1 loop from an additional ball of red yarn. Pulling - 10 loops of white yarn. 1 loop from one more ball of red yarn, cross, 6 loops of white yarn. This is the first row of the drawing.
We then follow the diagram.
From the eighth row of the pattern we knit only with colored (red) yarn. In the same row, we switch to knitting in the round: that is, we again distribute 12 loops onto 4 knitting needles: 1st and 2nd - 12 loops of red yarn, 3rd and 4th - 12 loops of white yarn.
If you wish, starting from the 10th row of the pattern, we knit the eyes.
But for me, small details became the basis for stitch embroidery. And I really like this process. I learned from this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ilRCucaledM&feature=youtu.be
If you are with me, we continue to knit in the round with red yarn until the 22nd row of the pattern.
Then we begin to make decreases (i.e., knit a toe) - the end of the sock.
In theory, for the toe we should decrease on each needle. But...
We have the face of a kitten)))))
Therefore, we will do a decrease in every row in the following way:
at the beginning of the 1st knitting needle - 2 knit stitches, 2 knitting needles together with a tilt to the left, then according to the pattern... and at the end of the 2nd knitting needle, without finishing 4 loops - 2 knit stitches together with a tilt to the right; Further:
at the beginning of the 3rd knitting needle - 2 knit stitches, 2 knit stitches together with a tilt to the left, then according to the pattern... and at the end of the 4th knitting needle, without finishing 4 loops - 2 knit stitches together with a tilt to the right, two knit stitches.

Uffff, girls, I hope I described the decrease properly
We continue to decrease until there are 2 loops left on each needle. We cut the thread, leaving a tip of 10-15 cm, thread this tip into the needle and pull it through the remaining 8 loops. We fasten the thread from the wrong side in a convenient way.
We carefully weave a waste (contrast) thread and close the tip of the main thread at the beginning of knitting. We thread all the ends of the threads from the wrong side. I do this with crochet.
The sock is ready.
If we are going to embroider in the future, we DO NOT sew the side seam.

Let's start knitting the second sock. Everything is the same, only we form the side seam in a mirror image.

Girls, we finish knitting the second sock, tuck in all the ends and wash both socks, dry them.

Next time we'll embroider. In principle, I provided a link to a video of embroidery on loops.
I also published my diagram.
Maybe you have some decor schemes???


As the embroidery progressed, I changed my own pattern. I added 1 more loop of green iris.
Embroider the tail. Sew the side seams.

W socks and ready:

Size: 37/38

You will need: yarn (100% cotton, 165 m/100 g) - 50 g light lilac and 50 g black, set of double needles No. 3, hook No. 1.75.

Description of knitting socks

Cast on 48 stitches with light lilac thread (12 stitches on a knitting needle) and knit 4 rows of faces. satin stitch Then complete the pattern according to pattern 1, and then knit 4 more rows of faces. satin stitch with light lilac thread. After this, start knitting a straight heel according to the general rules for knitting socks. Knit the heel fabric, alternating the colors of the threads. After the heel, continue knitting as follows: knit 4 rows with a light lilac thread, knit the next 2 rows, alternating light lilac and black.

Next, on the loops of the 1st and 2nd knitting needles, knit the pattern according to pattern 2, and knit the loops of the 3rd and 4th knitting needles, alternating colors. Then knit another 8 rows as follows: * 2 rows with light lilac thread, 2 rows, alternating colors *. Repeat from * 2 times. After this, start knitting the cape according to the general rules for knitting socks, alternating colors. Crochet the top of the sock with black thread in 2 rows of st. b/n.

In the cold season, knitting children's socks with knitting needles is simply necessary. It is so important that the child’s feet are warm. For a year, 2 and 3 years, choose wool yarn or alpaca yarn, with an admixture of artificial fiber, for example, polyamide. When knitting the heel, it would be nice to add a thin bobbin thread. Summer openwork socks are knitted for beginners from cotton yarn. At the end you will find patterns of cats for knitting jacquard.

How to calculate the number of loops for knitting a sock

In order not to start work over and over again, before knitting children's socks with knitting needles, we will calculate the required number of loops. In order for the socks to fit the child perfectly, you need to take into account the height of the leg, the size of the shin and the size of the foot itself.

  • There are circumstances when trying on a sock is impossible - then use the formula: X: 3 x 2 = Y, in which X means the shoe size, and Y is the length of the foot. X: 3 x 2 = Y
    where X is the shoe size, and Y is the foot size in centimeters. For children's socks with knitting needles you will need 50 g. yarn.
  • If this seems difficult to you, there are tables that indicate how many stitches to cast on according to the knitting density. It is necessary to knit a “tester” - 10/10 cm in order to calculate the required number of loops.
  • Another option for determining the number of loops. It is necessary to take 2 measurements of the baby’s legs: the 1st measurement is the circumference of the instep, it is measured with a centimeter at the widest point of the instep. 2nd measurement – ​​leg circumference, measured above the bone. Next, we find the average circumference: plus the circumference of the volume and the circumference of the leg and divide by 2. See so much and do the calculation for the set of p.
  • And the last option. Everyone knows that the anatomy of the leg has its own proportions. Look at the size ratio of the leg. You can't go wrong if you cast on the number of stitches on your knitting needles that correspond to the size: (top of the foot + sole = 100%). This is the size you need for the correct set of loops. Next we will knit beautiful socks with a step-by-step master class.

A set of loops in accordance with the anatomy of the leg.

Size chart for different knitting densities.

We will knit these original socks step by step with knitting needles for a child aged 3 – 4 years. We will knit on five needles in the simplest “grandmother’s” way. Knitting children's socks is something that is suitable for beginners who are just starting to knit. This simple way to knit baby socks will also come in handy for those who knew but forgot this technique.

Abbreviations: p. - loop, r. – row, l. – front, from. - purl, sp. - knitting needles, inm. - together.

To work you will need:

  1. 5 double needles, 3 mm thick.
  2. Yarn – wool with polyamide (150 m/50 g) – 1 skein of gray and 1 skein of blue.
  3. Black and red thread for the cat's face.
  4. An eraser at the end of each knitting needle is to prevent the yarn from slipping off the knitting needles.
  5. Pins or markers.

Table number 1, which helps to knit children's socks.

A 3-4 year old child’s foot corresponds to shoe size 26/27 and the foot size is 16-17 cm. We cast on 44 stitches with gray yarn. We focus on table number 1. We distribute all 44 stitches onto 4 knitting needles - on each knitting needle you will get 11 stitches. We will knit an elastic band first, and then circular rows. Mark the place of transition from one river to another. (between the 1st and 4th sp.) – with a marker. An elastic band can be knitted as in the photo (1 knit/1 knit), but, as a rule, such an elastic band stretches out quickly. Therefore, it is better to tie a 2/2 elastic band. Knitted 10 rubles. with an elastic band and move on to the faces. smooth surface We knit as many r., how high you want to make the socks. In this model there are only 6 r., usually 10 cm. In this place, patterns and patterns with jacquard are usually knitted.

Next, we will knit the heel wall. We will do this on the 1st and 4th sp. facial stitch. We are not touching the 2nd and 3rd spokes yet. We look at table 1: heel wall – 22 r. (44: 2), heel wall height – 14 r. (4 cm). If you knit the first and last stitches in garter stitch, this will make it easier for you to count p.

Next, you need to tie the bottom of the heel. Divide 22 sts into 3 parts (7;8;7). Mark with markers. We got 7 stitches on both sides, and 8 stitches in the middle. We start with the front row: knit 14. sts, k2 together, turn the work over (we don’t knit the remaining 6 sts, leave it like that.
2nd row: 8 p., 2 in. purl, turn over (leave 5 stitches unknitted).
3rd row: 8 persons, 2 vm. faces., turn the knitting over.
4th row: 8 out., 2 in. l., turn the knitting over.
And so on until there are 8 loops left on the knitting needle.

Now we have 8 stitches left. Next, we need to cast on as many stitches from the edges on the knitting needles as we have in table number 1 on both sides (the number of loops for casting on the side edges of the heel is 11, but we will take a little less - 9 stitches. ). In the place where the tail of the thread sticks out, we pick up 9 sts on the knitting needle and knit them, then we have 11 sts, another 11 sts, and again we pick up 9 sts on the knitting needle, knitting their faces. And here we have circular knitting again. There are currently 48 stitches on the needles.

And in this place it would be good to try on the sock on your foot. If it is too wide, reduce it. If the number of stitches suits you, we knit further in the circle, distributing the stitches: 12 stitches on each knitting needle. The beginning of the circular row is in the middle of the bottom of the heel (mark with a marker). We have 48 stitches on our knitting needles. We knit across a row of 2 knits together. Let's focus on the marker. Knitted 8 r. and decreased 4 p. 44 p. left, on each sp. – 11 p. Next, we begin to make the cat’s ears. Our pattern is 32 stitches, which means we add 12 stitches to the pattern, 6 on each side, and start knitting from the ears, from the 30th row:

To ensure that the long blue thread on the inside doesn’t bother you, make 2 blue balls. Gray yarn: 14 knits. p. gray, 1 person. p. blue, 14 p. gray, 1 p. blue, 14 l. n. gray.
29th r.: 13 l. p. gray, 3 l. n. blue, 12 l. p. gray, 3 l. n. blue, 13 l. n. gray.
28th r.: 12 l. p. gray, 5 l. n. blue, 10 l. p. gray, 5 blue, 12 l. n. gray.
27th r.: 11 l. p. gray, 7 l. n. blue, 8 l. p. gray, 7 l. n. blue, 11 l. n. gray.
26th r.: 10 l. n. gray, 9 blue, 6 gray, 9 blue, 10 gray.
25th r.: 44 l. n. blue.

The length of the foot to the toe is 13.5 cm (see table). We knit according to the pattern up to this point. We reach the little toe. Next we begin to make the toe. We make decreases at the end of every 11 stitches (2 stitches together). So we decrease until 2 stitches remain on the knitting needles. We cut the thread. We pull the end of the thread through these loops. We remove the tail.

The second sock is knitted in the same way, only it starts with blue yarn, with an elastic band.

In the video: how to knit children's socks on 5 knitting needles.

Children's socks on two knitting needles - master class with description

Children's socks on two knitting needles - this master class will be useful for those who do not like to knit on 5 knitting needles. We knit socks on 2 knitting needles, three more knitting needles are auxiliary. Then we sew the product with a needle and native thread. The product corresponds to size 22/23, foot length – 15 cm. Socks are knitted for ages 3 years.

To work you will need:

  1. Yarn – wool or wool blend – 1 skein 50 g.
  2. Stocking knitting needles 3.5 mm thick.
  3. The needle is thick.

We knit the upper part of the sock. We cast on 39 sts and plus 2 edge sts, for a total of 41 sts.
1st r.: edge, 1 person. p., 1 p., and so on until the end of the r., at the end - the edge.
2nd r.: chrome, 1 p. p., 1 l. etc., and so on until the end, at the end - chrome.
And so continue with an elastic band for 28 rows.
Next, we make a “tongue”: we knit it at 13 sts, and don’t touch the remaining sts!

1st row: chrome, 26 persons. etc., turn the work around.
2nd row: 13 persons. etc., turn the work around.
3rd row: k13, turn.

And so we knit garter stitch (knit stitches alone) for 34 rows. We got it: 14 sts on the first knitting needle, 13 for the tongue, 14 sts on the second knitting needle.

35th r. already without chrome. p.: knit 2 together, knit 9, knit 2 together.
36th r.: all facial.
37th r: 2 vm. persons., 7 persons., 2 vm. persons
38th r: all persons.
39th r: 2 vm. persons., 5 persons., 2 vm. l.
Next, we knit the circumference of the sock.

We tied the tongue to the end. We have left on the joint. 7 p.

1st r. sock circumference: raise 19 sts along the left side of the “tongue”, knit plus these 19 sts, another 13 sts from the second knitting needle and edge. Knit faces. Turn.

It turns out 7 stitches of “tongue” on a separate needle.

2nd r: chrome, knit 32, plus another 7 p. “tongue” knit. – total 39 p.

In total it turned out to be 71 points plus 2 chrome. (73 p. on the spread).

1st row: chrome, 2 vm. persons., 28 persons., 2 vm. l., 3 l., 2 vm. l., 3 persons., 2 vm. l., 27 faces., 2 vm. l., chrome.
2nd row: chrome, 66 persons. chrome
3rd row: chrome, 2 vm. l., 26 l., 2 vm. l., 2 l., 2 vm. l., 2 l., 2 vm. l., 26 l., 2 vm. l., chrome.
4th row: chrome, 61 persons, chrome.
5th row: chrome, 2 vm. l., 24 l., 2 vm. l., 1 l., 2 vm. l., 1 l., 2 vm. l., 25 l., 2 vm. l., chrome.
6th row: chrome, 56 l. n., chrome.
7th: 2 vm. l., 22 l., 2 vm. l., 2 vm. l., 24 l., 2 vm. l., chrome.
8th: chrome, 51 l., chrome.

Then we sew the top, heel and foot. We hide the end of the thread. Knit another sock like this.

In the video: an easy way to knit socks for 1-2 years old.

Openwork socks are knitted for ages 6-8 years with medium-thick cotton yarn on 5 3 mm needles. Foot length – 20 cm. Size 30-31. We will knit openwork socks in the round. To make it easier for you to knit, check table number 1 in the first master class.

We cast on 48 sts on 2 knitting needles, distribute them across 4 knitting needles (12 sts each) and knit further in the round:

1st r.: entire r. – facial.
2nd row: purl.
3rd: persons.
4th: purl.
5th, 6th, 7th - persons.
8th: purl.
9th: persons.
10th: purl.
11th and 12th: knit.
13th we make small holes for the laces: chrome, yarn over, knit 2 together, yarn over, 2 ins. l., and so on until the end of the river.
14th row: repeat the pattern from the 1st to the 12th row

Next, we knit the heel: 24 sts. Knit 7 cm in height (16 rows) on two sp., the remaining 2 sp. don't touch.
17th row: divide the same 24 sts of the heel into 3 parts (7;10;7) sts. Knit only the middle 10 sts. Start with the front row. So: 6 l., 2 vm. l., 10 l., 2 vm. l., 6 l. Rotate the work.
18th: 5 p., 2 in. purl, knit 10, inm 2 out., 5 out.

Next, we raise the side stitches on one side and the other (see the first master class). You need to raise 12 sts on each side. Distribute the sts like this: 28 sts on 2 sps, 26 sts on the remaining 2 sps. 28 sts are our rapport (see diagram), on these sts we will knit only the pattern (top of the sock).

On the remaining 2 bedrooms. Gradually decrease 6 extra stitches so that 48 stitches remain in the circle. Work 16 cm to the toe and begin decreasing. Decreases should be done like this: divide the entire canvas into 4 parts and do 2 cm after each. (11 p., 2 in., 11 p., 2 in., and so on) knit the toe to the end. We pull the thread through the last stitches and fasten it inside. Openwork socks are ready.

Cats - patterns for jacquard

Interesting jacquards for children will be useful for decorating socks, scarves, mittens, mittens, clothes, and so on. There can never be too many hand-knitted children's things. According to table number 1, you can independently knit socks for a child of 1 year and 2 years, as well as for 7-8-9 years. Children love bright socks with jacquard - now you can knit children's socks with knitting needles.

Often socks are knitted quickly and, admittedly, rather boringly. The situation is saved by creative ways of creating interesting, bright and extraordinary products. Especially when it comes to knitting for children, teenagers and just fun people. Their accessories may have an unusual shape, pattern or color, for example, multi-colored rainbow stripes, the Superman or Batman emblem, or a funny jacquard pattern. Also, long knee socks with an openwork pattern or socks with a knitting pattern (a variety of patterns can be used here) are also very beautiful to look at (and are a delight to knit) and are not particularly complex.

Yarn selection

To make it you will need yarn containing wool, mohair or angora (minimum 30%). It is not worth knitting from 100% acrylic, as it does not provide useful heat. But it creates a greenhouse effect, which is not very good for your feet. The thickness of the thread may vary. Its choice depends on the purpose of the product and the requirements for its appearance. Knitting patterned socks (patterns are usually designed for medium-weight yarn) is a good way to create beautiful and practical items for women, men and children.

Warm socks can be made from yarn whose thickness is 200-300 m/100 grams. You should not use a thread that is too thick, since such a sock is unlikely to fit into shoes, and it will be difficult to form a pattern. Products made from thin (400-500 m/100 grams) woolen thread are very warm and light. Their only drawback is rapid wear. However, this problem can also be solved by using an additional strong thread when knitting the heel and toe. To make high openwork socks and socks, thin wool, angora, cotton, viscose or linen are used.

Pattern placement

Based on the experience of the knitter and the purpose of the product, the pattern can be arranged in several ways:

  • On the pagolenka.
  • On the front of the sock (lengthwise).
  • On the entire surface of the product.

It is most convenient to knit an ornament on a flat circular fabric. There are no additions here, and there is no need to match the pattern with complex details with the toe). However, this approach provides a rather limited space for the craftswoman to express her imagination. No less common is the option of forming a long stripe of a pattern running along the entire front of the sock. It is also convenient due to the clear geometric shape of the ornament. Manipulations with shortening loops and knitting the heel do not distract from knitting the pattern and do not lead to errors.

Knitting socks with a pattern using knitting needles (patterns can be different) with an ornament on the entire surface of the fabric allows you to get very beautiful products, but this process is quite complicated. For the successful implementation of a project, one cannot do without attentiveness, diligence and accurate calculations.

What patterns are suitable for knitting men's socks

Many patterns with small repeats can be used to make socks. Of course, you should take into account the specifics of the product and the location of the decoration. For example, knitting men's socks with patterned knitting needles (it is better to choose simpler patterns) should not include any openwork or overly intricate braids. If you want to please your loved one, it is enough to knit an ornament of several longitudinal stripes, as in the photo above.

A few words about jacquards

Making socks for children is completely the opposite direction. Bright colors of yarn, colorful patterns, braids, embroidery, jacquards and all other handmade delights are very appropriate here. Jacquard with a pattern (patterns for children are not so difficult to find) can become a topic for a separate article, since this is an extremely voluminous and rather complex work.

In a nutshell, its features can be described as follows:

The diagram above shows an example of a good jacquard pattern. Despite its apparent simplicity, it has clear contours, an excellent plot and versatility.

Knitting socks with a pattern: patterns for women's models

There is nothing more impressive than socks made from quality yarn with voluminous cables. This is the embodiment of coziness and comfort. However, models with openwork fabric also deserve attention. Their purpose is more decorative than practical, but if you use a very warm thread, even an openwork can warm you up. In any case, any model turns out to be unique if the craftswoman loves and practices knitting.

Socks with a pattern (diagrams, descriptions and an example of the pattern location are below) can be made as follows. Any solid pattern that includes basic knitting techniques is suitable for this pattern.

The patterns on the patterns consist of simple front and back loops and their combinations. To give volume to the vertical braids in the second pattern, their front loops are knitted together with the loops of the previous row. The third pattern is equipped with vertical flagella, consisting of two intertwined loops.

The patterns below for knitting socks with knitting needles differ in that each of them uses interlacing loops.

How to work with a pattern

To get socks with successful placement of the ornament, you should make the correct calculations. Once the control sample is ready according to the pattern, knitted from the selected yarn, it will be possible to count how many loops and rows will be required to form a repeat. This information is important, first of all, because the sock fabric is knitted in the round. Therefore, it must consist of a whole number of rapports.

If the rapports are small, it will be easier to adjust their number to fit. When using a large pattern, the optimal solution is to place one or two repeats in the center of the canvas.

I took the yarn so that the socks would not be thick, but warm. They are very cozy and warm for your feet :)

So let's get started.

To work, we will need 2 partial skeins of ADELIA OLIVIA yarn, made in Australia (white and black), red thread for embroidering the face and a set of 5 knitting needles No. 2.5, hook 1.75 for knitting a lace.

I give a description of my socks: size -39, foot circumference 19-20 cm, toe height 17-18 cm. Knitting in 1 thread. You may have more or less, it all depends on how you knit (tight or loose) and what yarn you use.

1. Cuff

We cast on 56 loops on 2 knitting needles - black thread (I always cast on 1 more loop; when knitting into a ring, I knit the last and first loops together, and I get the required number of loops).

We distribute the loops on 4 knitting needles, 14 loops on each, start knitting the first row and connect the knitting into a ring.

We continue to knit the cuffs with front and back rows:

Row 1: knit.

Row 2: purl.

Row 3: knit.

Row 4: purl.

Row 5: knit.

Row 6: purl.

Row 7: knit.

Row 8: knit 2 together, yarn over - holes for lace.

Row 9: knit.

Row 10: purl.

Row 11: knit.

Row 12: purl.

Row 13: knit.

Row 14: purl.

Rows 15-18 knit.

Row 19: purl.

Row 20: knit.

Row 21: purl.

Row 22: knit.

Row 23: purl.

from 24 to 27 row: knit only.

Row 28: purl.

Row 29: knit.

Row 30: purl.

from 31 to 34 rows: knit only.

Row 35: purl.

3.Heel

We move on to knitting the heel: continuing to knit from 1 knitting needle, we knit 14 loops onto the 4th knitting needle and get 28 loops (we leave the 2nd and 3rd knitting needles temporarily). We knit 22 rows with knit and purl rows (knit stitch in turning rows).

We divide 28 loops to knit the heel 7-14-7 loops (can be marked with a marker or colored thread):

on the 23rd row (for me this is a purl row) - purl 20 loops, 2 together, unfold the knitting (6 loops remain unknitted)

Row 24: slip 1, knit 12, 2 together, turn (6 stitches left unknitted)

Row 25: slip 1, purl 12, 2 together, turn (5 stitches left unknitted)

Row 26: slip 1, knit 12, 2 together, turn (5 stitches left unknitted)

And so on we knit until there are 14 loops left. I have 14 stitches left after all the decreases on the knit row.

4. Instep wedge (transition from heel to sole)

We continue knitting: we raise the side loops, 15 loops on each side and divide the 14 heel loops into 2 knitting needles, i.e. we get 14 loops on the 2nd and 3rd knitting needles, 22 loops on the 1st and 4th knitting needles. Thus, we again switched to knitting in the round on 5 knitting needles.

5. Foot

We continue knitting in stockinette stitch with the same black thread.

We knit 10 rows.

On the 11th row we begin to knit the ears, add a white thread (I tied a separate white thread to each ear so that there would be no long broaches, when we knit 5 rows and switch completely to the main knitting with a white thread, we will break the second thread and then fasten it).

So, row 11:

The first knitting needle is unchanged - 14 black loops;
- it is better to transfer the loops of the second and third knitting needles to one: 6 loops - black thread, 1 loop - white, 14 loops - black, 1 loop - white, 6 loops - black;
- fourth knitting needle unchanged - 14 black stitches.

Row 12:

- second and third - 5 black, 3 white, 12 black, 3 white, 5 black;

Row 13:
- first knitting needle - 14 black loops;
- second and third - 4 black, 5 white, 10 black, 5 white, 4 black;
- fourth knitting needle - 14 black loops.

Row 14:
- first knitting needle - 14 black loops;
- second and third - 3 black, 7 white, 8 black, 7 white, 3 black;
- fourth knitting needle - 14 black loops.

Row 15:
- first knitting needle - 14 black loops;
- second and third - 2 black, 9 white, 6 black, 9 white, 2 black;
- fourth knitting needle - 14 black loops.

In the 16th row, the first knitting needle is 14 black and we break the thread, leaving about 1 m, in the future we use it to embroider eyes and mustaches, from the second knitting needle we switch to knitting with white thread, leave the first thread, and break the second white thread (this is for those who knitted from two white ones) For the convenience of knitting, we again switch to knitting with 5 knitting needles.

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