Ruffle ruffles. Shuttlecocks on the shoulders. Marking and forming knife folds

How to cut and sew frills, ruffles, flounces

Frills: a) gathered; b) pleated

Frills are strips of material of varying widths, gathered on one side and stitched to the product on the same side. Frills are cut in a straight line. The strip of fabric should be one and a half times longer than the finished frill. The thinner and softer the fabric, the tighter it should be gathered and the longer the cut strip.
The frill can be pleated. In this case, the strip of fabric should be three times longer than the finished assembly.

Ruffles: a) simple ruffle; b) shaped ruffle

Ruffles are strips of material gathered in the middle. For more uniform sizing, lay 2-3 parallel lines. They are sewn onto the part from above. They can be made from the material of the product or from finishing materials. The ruffles are sewn on by machine between the gather lines.

Shuttlecock

The flounces are cut out in straight stripes along a bias thread or from fabric cut in the shape of a circle (allows you to avoid unnecessary seams). The smaller the inner circle, the more magnificent the shuttlecock. The stitched side can be additionally assembled with frequent folds.

Processing of slices. Cuts of frills, ruffles, flounces can be processed in various ways depending on the material.
When processing cuts on a machine with a zigzag stitch, the cut of the part is folded to the wrong side of the product by 0.5-0.7 cm and stitched on the side of the folded cut with a seam 0.1-0.2 cm wide; the folded edge near the stitching is trimmed. On fabrics that are easily stretched and skewed, the cut of the part is pre-basted (to sweep = fold the edge of the part and secure in this state with running stitches for sewing by machine or hemming by hand) or ironed, in this case the stitching can be laid on the front side.
When processing straight seams into a hem, the cut of the part is folded to the wrong side by 0.3-0.5 cm and stitched from the side of the folded edge at a distance of 0.1 cm from the fold. The folded edge near the line is cut off, the edge of the part is folded to the wrong side by 0.15-0.2 cm and stitched with a second line from the side of the folded edge along the first line.
Cuts of frills, ruffles, flounces can be processed with an edging seam. Lace can be sewn along their edge using a machine with a zigzag stitch. The lace is applied to the cut of the part from the front side, overlapping the cut by 0.5-0.7 cm, and stitched with a seam 0.2 cm wide. The cut of the part from the wrong side is trimmed near the line.
The shuttlecock can be treated with a lining. For lining, use the same or lighter fabric, or fabric in a contrasting color. The lining will completely cover the raw edges and give the product a finished look.

To obtain uniform gathers, two or three parallel lines are laid on the parts.
When making frills with soft, unironed folds, the cut of the part is folded along the notches, forming folds, and stitched so that the stitching when connecting the frill to the main part is not visible from the front side.
For a ruffle with soft, unironed folds, a strip of fabric is folded along the markings and secured with a stitch in the middle of the part.
To get a ruffle with a figured edge, the gather stitch is laid along a zigzag line. The distance between the zigzag vertices is set in accordance with the model.
Internal (sewn to the main parts) sections of frills and flounces can be overcast or edged.

Fig.1. Connection of frills, flounces located along the edges of the parts:
a - drain or adjustment seam;
b - overcast seam;
How to sew a frill, flounce

The arrangement of frills, flounces, ruffles on the main parts of the product is varied: they can be at the edges of the parts, along the seams of the main parts, or along the surface of the whole part. Depending on their location, type of material and processing, several methods of connecting frills and flounces to the main parts of the product can be used.
Frills and flounces located at the edges of the parts can be connected to the main part with a stitch, stitching, overcast or edging seam. When joining with a stitched or stitched seam (Fig. 1,a), the frill or flounce is placed on the front side of the main part, basted and stitched, or stitched without basting. The stitch is laid from the side of the frill or flounce, leveling the assemblies and matching the sections of the parts. The seam width is 1-1.25 cm. The seam is overcast. The stitching seam of the frill or flounce is ironed towards the main part. The seam can be stitched at a distance of 1-2 mm from the stitching seam.
If an elastic band (elastic band) is provided at the junction of the frill with the main part, then the width of the seam for attaching the frill or flounce is increased to 1.5-2 cm and a second one is laid at a distance of 0.8-1 cm from the first line.

When joining with a facing seam (Fig. 1.6), the frill or flounce is first sewn to the lower part with a seam 5 mm wide, and then the edge is ground with the upper part along the stitching line of the frill and or flounce, aligning the cuts; seam width 5 mm. The parts are turned out and straightened. The seam can be stitched at a distance of 1-2 mm from the frill connection line.

When connecting a frill or flounce with an edge seam (Fig. 1, c), they are basted to the cut of the part and the cut is processed with an edge seam in the same way as a frill cut.
c - edge seam
Connection of frills, flounces with the whole part:
a - grinding;
b - grinding with processed sections;
c - with hemming of the stitched cut

The frill or flounce, located in the seam of the connection of the parts, is applied with the wrong side to the front side of the main part and stitched, aligning the cuts. When connecting parts with a stitch seam, the main part with a frill is folded with another main part with the right sides inward and ground along the stitching line of the frill, aligning the cuts (Fig. 2, a).
When joining parts with an overlay seam, the cut of the main part without a frill is folded, placed on a part with a frill or flounce, and adjusted so that the stitching line for the frill or flounce is not visible from the front side.
Double frills (Fig. 2.6) or flounces (extending one from under the other) are pre-folded, aligning the cuts, and then stitched to the main part.

When connecting a frill or flounce to a whole part, mark the location of the frill or flounce on the main part. If the frills are not wide and vertically located, then they are usually sewn into the main part (Fig. 3, a). When cutting the main part, give a seam allowance for stitching each frill of 0.8-1 cm. The frill is placed on the front side of the main part with a cut to the intended line, right side up and stitched with a seam 4-5 mm wide; The main part is bent, going around the cut of the frill, and on the wrong side, a second line is laid along the stitching line of the frill. The main part is straightened. The stitching seam for the frill to ensure stability of the frill can be stitched on the front side at a distance of 1-2 mm from the assembly joining line.
If the frill or flounce does not have gathers or the gathers are insignificant (Fig. 3, b), then the frill or flounce with processed sections is basted and stitched with a seam 7-8 mm wide.
If the frill or flounce has significant gathers, then the cut is first folded and assembled on the assembly (Fig. 3, c), and then applied to the front side of the part and adjusted along the line that secures the gathers.

For the hardworking - a bright light burns through life, for the lazy - a dim candle

We sew flounces. Lesson 5 - ruffles and frills.

Good afternoon, today we will take a little break from lessons on modeling shuttlecocks. In this article I will tell and show everything I know about ruffles and frills, how they are designed and how they are sewn on. We have already sewn something with ruffles - remember these

Let me first tell you what ruffles are, then I will show in photographs beautiful models of clothing for children and adults decorated with ruffles. And then we will start sewing and sewing on the ruffles and frills. And after this article you will be able to sew one like this. Or topic with

So, this is what ruffles look like(photo below): this is a strip of fabric gathered along the middle seam. That is, the assembly seam runs in the middle. The ruffle is also attached to the product with a middle seam. You and I will need to sew a beautiful dress.

This is what frills look like (photo below) - these are strips of fabric, gathered only on one side, and on the same side they are sewn to the product. The strip of fabric for the frill (and for the ruffle too) should be at least 1.5 times longer than the finished frill (but we will dwell in more detail on the proportions and lengths).

Now let's take a little look at the models of clothes decorated with ruffles and get filled with ideas for your future clothes, sewn with your own hands.

Let's start with children's dresses and tunics:

Thanks to the ruffles, the simplest cut children's dress can become simply VERY elegant.

Ruffles on clothes for newborns look very touching.

Pink ruffles on pink dresses for pink girls are the very embodiment of tenderness.

And here is an example of ruffles on elegant dresses for girls. They can be used to decorate straps. Lush tulle ruffles can be placed along the edge of the neckline and even decorated with fabric roses.

Ruffles can also be sewn in frequent rows over the entire surface of the dress. By the way, in fabric stores you can find fabric with strips of ruffles and frills already sewn onto it.

Ruffles also look good on older girls. Only the color of the fabric for models with ruffles is better to choose a calmer one - gray, black, brown, white.

Well, now let's figure out how to properly sew and attach ruffles and frills.

WE MAKE RUCHES AND FRILLS.

How long should the strip be for ruffles and frills?

That is, to find out how long to cut a strip of fabric for a ruffle, we need to measure the length of the line to which the ruffle will be sewn. We take a centimeter and measure it directly on the product. And then we multiply the resulting figure by 1.5 (or simply add another half of this number to the number). For example, our ruffle sewing line is 80 cm, which means the ruffle strip should be equal to 80 + 40 (half of eighty) = 120 cm.

Strips of fabric for ruffles and frills are cut in a straight line.

We cut out a strip for the ruffle 120 cm long, and then gather it until it is equal to 80 cm - i.e. the length of the finished, already assembled ruffle should coincide with the length of its sewing line.

But you also need to know that the thinner and softer the fabric, the tighter the gathering on the ruffle should be so that it holds its shape. This means that the longer the strip of fabric for such a ruffle should be. It turns out that if we make ruffles from soft fabric, we need to multiply the length of the sewing line not 1.5 times, but 2 times or maybe more. I always cut off a strip with a margin, then when you start assembling, as you go, it becomes clear what density of assembly looks better.

And if we plan to make a pleated frill, then the strip of fabric should be 3 times longer than the sewing line of the frill.

Should the edges of the ruffle be processed?

First, immediately decide whether you will process the edges of our ruffle - if the fabric does not fray, then the edges can be left as is - knit ruffles are usually left simply unprocessed, thin satin and chintz, shiny satin, silk, organza are better treated. But it all depends on the model you are sewing. I’ll tell you more, even if the fabric frays, you can also leave it as is (nowadays such shaggy ruffles are often found on blouses and tops - it’s fashionable) if from time to time there are extra shaggy hairs that appear along the edge of the ruffle, I simply cut them off with scissors I continue to use the clothes. To reduce the flowability of such fabrics, the cut of the strips of fabric can be done with zigzag scissors or cut not in a straight line, but on an oblique.

Just pay attention in stores to how the ruffles on the dresses, tops and tunics sold there are processed - you will discover a lot of new things. It turns out that many clothing manufacturers don’t bother processing cuts at all.

If you decide to process the ruffle cut.

The first method is a zigzag stitch.

We bend the cut to the wrong side by 5-7 mm and attach it to the wrong side with a zigzag seam (the width of the zigzag seam is 2-3 mm (but it’s okay if it’s different).

Method two - with a regular line

We bend the cut to the wrong side (the width of the bend is 3-5 mm). You can iron the bend comfortably. Then we put it under the machine’s foot, slowly, and sew with a regular stitch. We lay the line at a distance of 1-2 mm from the fold line. After this line, carefully trim the excess edge of the fold with scissors as close to the seam as possible. And again (the second time) we bend such a stitched edge to the wrong side by 2-3 mm and once again lay a line along this bend (directly along the first line). It turns out very neat and durable - for centuries.

How to make a gather on a ruffle

We take a strip of fabric, set the widest seam stitch on the machine (the larger the better), and use this wide stitch to sew a line evenly in the middle of the strip.

To ensure that the seam goes exactly in the middle of the ruffle, you can first fold the ruffle in half along its entire length and lightly smooth the fold line with an iron (like an arrow on trousers). Then we fold the strip back, and in the center we have a mark from the fold. And this fold line will be our visible guideline along which we will drive our line.

So we ran this very wide stitch line, took it out from under the machine, and cut the threads. And now, to get an assembly, all you need to do is simply pull the threads and the ruffle itself will begin to wrinkle evenly along its entire length. We need to tighten the threads until we get the length of the ruffle we need (that is, the length equal to the sewing line of the ruffle on the product).

To make the frill gather more evenly, it is sometimes recommended to make not one central seam, but two seams in the center, one next to the other. But I usually gather one center seam at a time. And I adjust the uniformity of the assembly manually.

How to make a gather on a frill.

Exactly the same as on the ruffle - only we lay a large stitch line not in the center of the strip, but along its edge.

How to sew ruffles to a product

I first sew the ruffles by hand using large rough stitches evenly to the planned sewing line, taking my time, constantly bending the edges of the ruffle and checking whether I have strayed from the intended line. If the line does not go along the edge of the product, but directly along the canvas, then first it is better to draw this very sewing line on the canvas with a pencil or chalk.

When the ruffles are sewn by hand, I put it all under the machine foot and stitch in the center, sewing the ruffle to the product. And then I pull out the rough thread (the one I used to baste the ruffle by hand).

How to sew a frill to a product

Happy sewing.

Olga Klishevskaya, especially for the site "".

This article is a new training course on sewing flounces - for sewing beginners.
We will learn to model and sew flounces. At first I just wanted to write one article about it. But in the end, the amount of important and necessary information turned out to be so great that it turned out to be a whole cycle. But here everything is described in as much detail as possible, in simple language, and the essence and principles of constructing shuttlecocks are revealed quite deeply. And also, as always, a lot of clarity and pictures.

In general, we will dig deep - in order to fly high.))) And in order for you to want to dig, I will start by awakening in you a thirst for flight. Fly into this amazing world of shuttlecock art.

Yes! We'll start with pictures. To inspire you to achieve feats in the difficult but fascinating task of cutting and sewing flounces, I will begin this series by showing how many wonderful models can be decorated with this wonderfully tailored piece of fabric.

In the first part of the article, we will look at what kind of shuttlecocks there are and fall in love with them with all our hearts.

The second part will tell you how to draw a pattern for a classic shuttlecock; I will describe it in great detail. how to calculate and draw everything (even without a compass).

In the third part, we will learn how to make shuttlecocks with weak waviness and shuttlecocks with thick folds - that is, we will learn how to cut shuttlecocks with different “waviness coefficients”.

In the fourth part, I will talk about one simplified way to cut a shuttlecock - for shuttlecocks of average wave density.

In the fifth part of the series, we will learn how to decorate our clothes with ruffles and frills

In the sixth article, I will tell you how to sew a flounce to the edge of a hem or neckline, how to sew a flounce between two parts of a product, and how to sew a flounce to a solid part (for example, in the middle of a front part).

In the seventh and eighth articles, you and I will be able to freely model any kind of voile, even flounces.

So, let's look at the pictures))) and get acquainted with different shuttlecocks.

PART 1

Horizontal flounces.

We have known these shuttlecocks since our childhood. Everyone had skirts or dresses with such flounces.

Vertical flounces.

But these shuttlecocks are my greatest love today. This decor looks best on women with small breasts. But even I, with my size four, will still take and sew myself at least a top with such vertical ruffles. Well, I really want to.

Isn't it beautiful?

The shuttlecocks are symmetrical.

Such flounces are sewn mirror image to each other. Between them there is a strip of fabric. And the flounce is sewn into the side seams of the placket. Sometimes the plank is overhead. Sometimes it is a detail of the cut - that is, the dress at this point is cut into two halves. A flounce is attached to the edges of the halves, and then the edges of the halves are each sewn to their own side of the strip.

Shuttlecock over the shoulder.

Most often, such shuttlecocks come in several tiers. They can be present on asymmetrical dresses with a slanted neckline (from shoulder to armpit). Sometimes a bustier is sewn onto a simple dress, and then the flounce passes through the center of the chest to the waist line.

Shuttlecocks located obliquely.

These models look very nice. The illusion of delicate rose petals appears. Necessarily let's make a dress like this and then the link will appear here. I’ll try very hard not to put off this master class (you’ve probably already noticed that I like to promise and plan - if only I could still manage to do everything...) - perhaps we’ll sew for the New Year’s corporate party))).

Frill flounces.

Yes, they are very reminiscent of the same frill on the costumes of nobles in the Middle Ages. But such frill flounces are made in a modern way. This could be one long flounce sewn onto the dress in the form of an irregular and slightly chaotic zigzag. Or maybe several flounces of a nervous shape and sewn in rows asymmetrical in length. In short, your imagination and courage to experiment - the output can give you a unique piece of your design improvisation - just like that))).

The shuttlecocks are chaotic.

You look at such dresses and think: “Well, it’s interesting to know whether all this charm was invented by chance, by inspiration, or whether everything was calculated and drawn on paper. Someday we will have to try to construct something similar...

Curly shuttlecocks.

There is no longer such shuttlecock chaos as in previous models. Here you can already see the design calculation and carelessness of the confident hand of a genius. All genius fashion designers, please note, are a little careless. Even if this negligence is carefully calculated and predicted. This apparent lightness and unintentional randomness of distortions in the layers of fabric is where the special piquancy of their creations lies.

The flounces are U-shaped.

They are shaped like the letter U, so I named them that. They give the dress texture and the image itself tenderness and feminine fragility.

Frill flounces.

Generally speaking, this is not a flounce, but rather frills (some people call them ruffles - but ruffles are a little different. I will write about ruffles and frills in a separate article in great detail with photographs and educational pictures. Frills differ from flounces in that they are straight strips of fabric that are sewn to the product in a gathered form.

Tiered shuttlecocks.

Everything is clear here, the shuttlecocks are placed next to each other. They can be straight (that is, the same across their entire width), or they can be curly (like on a gray dress). They may be skewed (as on the black and white dresses in the photo below).

Drapery flounces or cape flounces.

I don’t even know what to call it correctly – draperies, or capes, or layers. It’s just that these jokes (pictured below) also exist according to the laws of the shuttlecock. They are created exactly according to the same principles as the shuttlecock. We will even look at one of these models with flounce-drapery in the next article.

Shuttlecocks-bows.

Well that's it!!! Here I am simply dying of delight. How beautiful it is. You look and think: what a skilled fashion designer you have to be to sew something like this. Well, they didn’t guess right. In the near future, we will sew ourselves a top or dress with such a flounce-bow. In the fall, for the New Year's party, I conceived a series of articles on sewing elegant dresses. That’s where we’ll probably look at this model. Oh, my heart senses that not everything will be so simple with this bow... and I will suffer, unraveling the secrets of these bow-shaped swirls of fabric. But it's worth it. Sewing such a thing with your own hands is a pleasure of the highest order - it must be experienced.

Flounces on skirts.

It would seem that a skirt with flounces is simple and clear. But it turns out there are so many different variations you can come up with. Someday we'll work on skirts. Life will be long, I hope. While I'm alive, we will study))).

Shuttlecocks on the shoulders.

Very nice and modest decor. Very good for women with large breasts, as it visually takes away volume from the chest, evening out the shoulder-chest ratio.

Shuttlecock at the neck.

But such flounces are generally magical; they can visually reduce breasts, or, on the contrary, enlarge them. It all depends on each specific design. And they always look very impressive. Such models must be made from plain fabric without a pattern.

Flounce sleeves.

Well, I already wrote about such sleeves in one of the articles in the series “Sleeves for clothes - we do it ourselves.” Everything is described there in detail.

Volan-boa.

I called them that because these flounces perform the same function that was previously performed by an impressive fur boa, carelessly thrown over the shoulder of a beauty of the early 19th century. Now we are all against the killing of innocent fluffies. And a fur snake on a summer dress is somehow uncomfortable. Therefore, let the soft folds of a lush flounce descend over your shoulder with a silent rustle. That's very beautiful.

Well, now that you see all the tempting prospects of your future new knowledge, let's start learning. Let's go and learn all the laws of shuttlecock life, all the principles of its construction.

We won’t immediately start talking about modeling shuttlecocks - before you can fly, you need to grow wings - that is, master the technique. And so we will start from the very beginning and take a good look at the very structure of this cunning textile device called VOLAN.

A flounce is a strip of fabric that ripples on its own. Moreover only the outer edge is worried flounce, but the inner edge (with which it is sewn to the dress) does not have a wave.

The shuttlecock gets this property of “waving only on one edge” thanks to its special cutting. Namely, the shuttlecock is cut in a circle (or in a spiral, like a snail’s house).

That is, there are 2 ways to cut a shuttlecock:

Circular – aka “donut”

Spiral – aka “snail” (read part 4 of the article)

We will explore both methods. And let's start with the first one.

The donut method of constructing a shuttlecock.

Look, I depicted it below flounce cutting principle, which ensures the wavy outer edge of the shuttlecock (blue line) and the straight line of its inner edge (red line).

This is the bagel cutting method.

Calculation of the size of circles for a shuttlecock donut

And now I'll teach you HOW TO CORRECTLY CALCULATE THE SIZE OF A “DOUBLE” so that the result is a shuttlecock of the length and width we need.

Consider a specific example:

An example of calculating the size of a shuttlecock : here we took the measurements:

Our flounce sewing line is 60 cm(this is the line of the edge of the neckline along which the flounce will be sewn). And the planned width of the shuttlecock is 7 cm(these numbers already include seam allowances - yes, yes, it’s better to add them right away) - the width of the shuttlecock can be arbitrary, at your discretion.

That is, we need a shuttlecock 60 cm long and 7 cm wide

We already know that the length of the flounce sewing line should coincide with the long inner circle of the “donut” - this circle is drawn with a red line in the figure below.

That is, in order to get a shuttlecock with such a sewing length (60 cm), we need to draw the inner circle of the donut, also 60 cm long.

We pick up a compass and think... hmmm How far should the legs of the compass be moved apart to get a circle 60 cm long???. That is, we need to know the RADIUS of our circle is 60 cm.

I described in detail how to calculate radii for circles in pictures in a special article “how to calculate a circle and draw it without compasses.”

And in this article briefly I'll give you the formula itself:

Circle radius = circumference divided by 6.28

That is, in our case, we do this (60 cm: 6.28 = 9.55) - that is, the radius for a circle of 60 cm will be 9.5 cm - by this distance we move the legs of the compass apart to draw a donut with such a center.

We need a shuttlecock 7 cm wide. This means that the thickness of our boubulik will also be 7 cm. That is, to draw the second (outer) circle of the donut, we need to draw a circle with a radius 7 cm larger than the previous one. We add (9.5 + 7 = 16.5 cm) - this is the radius of the outer circle for the donut. We place the compass with its tip in the same center (as our first circle) and draw a second circle with a radius of 16.5 cm.

So we got a “donut” - for a shuttlecock 60 cm long and 7 cm wide.

Well, that's all - see how simple it really is. Of course, this option is good if we need a short shuttlecock. For example, to decorate the neck or shoulder of a product.

This method, and as you can see, does not have a very convenient consumption of fabric - what remains is a round piece of fabric from the donut hole. But this can be avoided if you do the cutting correctly - transferring not a whole donut to the fabric - but its halves are crescents- and then they can be laid with their horns facing each other and the consumption of fabric will be more economical (though then the flounce will consist of two sections sewn together on the side).

But that's not all,

what I want to tell you about the bagel method.

The fact is that shuttlecocks have what I call “ waviness coefficient "or "density coefficient".

Look, in the photo below on the right we see flounces on the dress with a high waviness/density ratio. That is, they have a steeper wave

We will now move on to the next article, where I will tell you what affects the degree of waviness of the shuttlecocks.

Today we will learn to calculate the density of our shuttlecocks - that is, to make slightly wavy and strongly wavy shuttlecocks. Yes, shuttlecocks are different. Since not all fashionable ladies feel inclined to cheerful and playful shuttlecocks. Therefore, as you yourself have already noticed in the bright illustrations of the fashion industry, the flounce does not necessarily have to protrude provocatively or stick out like the wings of an angel. I want to draw your attention to the following more discreet and stylish ideas for flounces:

1.) For dress models with ruffles made of fluid, flowing fabrics - for example, such as thin knitwear - the ruffles look soft and very calm. Look at what a beautiful white dress with tiered flounces made of linen jersey in the photo below.

2.) Or you can make flounces with a very soft, weak wave - then they also look noble and lose their frivolity - see photo of a girl with a hoop.

3.) Or serve flounces - under the guise of layering in clothes - this is when one garment peeks out from under another - like in the top on the right. In this case, flounces are made from fabric of different colors and even different textures.

Now let’s figure out what exactly affects the “waviness of the shuttlecock” and the steepness of this very wave - that is, what increases or decreases the so-called “waviness coefficient”.

The fact is that using the donut method you can make both cool shuttlecocks and weakly wavy ones. The principle by which this happens can be formulated as follows:

the SMALLER the circumference of the shuttlecock’s inner radius, the STOLER its waviness.

The BIGGER the circumference of the shuttlecock’s inner radius, the WEAKER the waviness of the shuttlecock.

That is, the greater the difference between the side of the flounce with which it is sewn to the dress, and the one that waves freely - the thicker the shuttlecock will be.

And correspondingly, the smaller the difference along the length - between the sewing side of the flounce and its freely hanging side - the weaker this waviness will be.

For a weak flounce, it is necessary that the side of its sewing be not much shorter than the side he is worried about.

For a thick shuttlecock, it is necessary that this difference in the length of the edges (inner and outer) be as much as possible.

How to achieve this (reduced or increased) difference between the sewn and free sides of the flounce. – now we’ll sort it out.

Using two specific examples.

HOW TO MAKE A SHUTTER WITH A WEAK WAVE

Let's say we need slightly wavy shuttlecock 60 cm long and 7 cm wide

I specifically took the same shuttlecock parameters (60 cm and 7 cm) as in the previous article (where we made a classic shuttlecock) - so that you could feel the difference in the construction of a shuttlecock with a classic degree of waviness and a shuttlecock with a weak wave.

How can we achieve a slight waviness? You just need to draw a shuttlecock based on the inner circle of a GREATER radius than in a classic donut.

Remember - in the second lesson, our classic “donut method” for a 60 cm shuttlecock required a radius of 9.5 cm. And we’ll take more radius - 12 cm, or 15, or even more. The larger the value we choose, the weaker our shuttlecock will wave.

So, as you can see in the picture, we draw a circle with a larger diameter. And immediately draw a second circle - the other edge of the shuttlecock (with a radius of 7 cm larger than the first - this is to get a shuttlecock 7 cm wide.)

Next, using a measuring tape, we measure the required length of the shuttlecock along the edge of this circle. We make notes. And in order to draw the smooth edges of our shuttlecock, we draw 2 lines from the center of the donut to the marks and right through the entire donut. Here we have smooth and symmetrical edges.

It turns out this is an open donut - The shuttlecock pattern itself is filled in blue in my picture. The length of the inner radius of this shuttlecock crescent is 60 cm. It does not wave as much as if it were closed in a ring - that is, we got what we wanted - a 60 cm shuttlecock with a weaker wave.

Now let's learn how to make a reverse shuttlecock with increased waviness.

HOW TO BUILD A SHUTTER WITH AN INCREASED DEGREE OF WAVING.

So, let's look at how to draw a shuttlecock with a high degree of waviness. Let's look at an example..

Let's say we need pretty cool shuttlecock the same 60 cm long and 7 cm wide.

For such a flounce, the difference in the lengths of the edges - between the inner (sewn) edge and the outer (wavy) edge - should, on the contrary, be increased. That is, in essence, the inner radius is needed as small as possible, and the outer radius is needed larger - than in a classic donut.

But there is no such figure in the world. It cannot be drawn on a flat piece of paper. Yes, it doesn’t exist - but this can be depicted in 3D graphics... or... there is a way.

The method is that we draw two donuts of reduced radius - and we get two halves of the shuttlecock - each in the form of a donut. Since our radius will be small, the length of each flounce strip when unfolded will be short (for example, 30 cm along the inner edge) - but then, by sewing the side edges of these donut strips together, we will get a thick flounce - with a total length of 60 cm.

Now we will do everything and it will be clear. First let's talk about radius calculations...

Question What should be the radius of such a donut for a thick shuttlecock?

Answer he must be less than the classic “donut” version from the first article. The smaller the radius, the thicker the shuttlecock will be. But the smaller the radius, the smaller the shuttlecock segment we'll get out of this bagel. And that means we will need more bagels - in order to combine them together to get the 60 cm shuttlecock we need.

We remember that radius of the inner circle of the donut in the classic version (i.e. for a shuttlecock of medium density) was found according to the formula - length of the shuttlecock: 6.28 = radius of the inner ring.

Finding the classic radius for our 60 cm shuttlecock– (60: 6.28 = 9.5 cm) – and now we know that for greater thickness – we need a bagel with a radius less than this. Less than 9.5 cm.

For example, we choose a radius of 5 cm- then we will get a piece of shuttlecock long... we count on a calculator (5 x 6.28 = 31.4 cm). That is, if we draw a donut with such a radius of 5 cm, then at the output we will get 31 cm shuttlecock. Yeah, that means we will need to cut out 2 donuts on the fabric - in order to connect them together with a side seam and get a 60 cm flounce (the extra couple of cm will go to this side seam connecting the flounces).

Such cool bagels connected together - when folded calmly, they will look like 2 turns of one spiral.

This is what it will look like – pictures in the studio! :

We calculate the reduced radii.

We cut out 2 donuts of reduced radius - mark 2 pieces of steeply loaded shuttlecocks - connect them together with a side seam - we get such a spiral shuttlecock.

We ourselves can regulate the degree of steepness of such a shuttlecock:

The smaller the inner circumference of such donut rings, the tighter the spiral will be twisted - and the more donuts you need to draw to achieve the shuttlecock length we need.

The larger the circumference of the rings, the longer the shuttlecock segment from one donut will be - and the fewer donuts we will need for a shuttlecock of the length we need - but the degree of twist of such a shuttlecock will be weaker than strong.

It all depends on the inner radius, as we said at the beginning of this article. Now I hope the picture is clear? And you are already beginning to understand how everything works in the world of shuttlecocks.

And now it’s time to talk about the promised second method of constructing shuttlecocks - (about the snail or spiral method) With this method we can immediately obtain a shuttlecock of immense length and with almost zero fabric waste. Only the degree of steepness of such a shuttlecock will be uneven along its length. But more about this in the next part of the article “Sewing flounces - the most understandable lessons. Part 4"

And today we will talk about the second promised way to draw a shuttlecock - this is the SNAIL OR SPIRAL METHOD.

SPIRAL METHOD OF CUTTING SHUTTERS.

Using this method, you can draw a flounce directly on the fabric and cut it out with minimal fabric waste. In this way, you can cut out a shuttlecock of sufficiently long length from a small piece of fabric.

The only thing about this shuttlecock that bothers me is- it has an unequal degree of waviness along its length - that is, at one end the shuttlecock has strongly twisted waves, and at the other end it produces slight waviness. This means that if you need a flounce of the same degree of waviness - for example, tiered flounces for a skirt or dress - then this method is not suitable. This method is suitable if you need flounces for an asymmetrical or chaotic design of a dress or skirt - for jabot or for example if you do U-shaped neck design with flounce– that is, in cases where the uniformity and uniformity of the shuttlecock’s turbulence is not important. In the first part of this series of articles - there are many photographs of different models of shuttlecocks - you can go back there and remind yourself what cases we are talking about here.

Now I will show you how to draw a shuttlecock in this snail-like way - everything is explained step by step here.

As you understand, the points located on each of the four crossbars serve as guidelines for us to draw the snail correctly and evenly. The same distance between the points allows us to cut out a shuttlecock of the same width along its entire length. In this case, we will get a shuttlecock 4 cm wide.

Please note that each new turn of the shuttlecock has a larger circumference than the previous turn. That is why the shuttlecock loses “its waviness” as it moves away from the center. And it turns out that when straightened, the end of the shuttlecock that is closer to the center will have more undulations than its opposite tail (remote from the center of the cross).

That is, this snail-like method of cutting a shuttlecock ultimately gives us a shuttlecock with an uneven degree of waviness. Therefore, such a shuttlecock is suitable for those models where uniform waviness is not needed.

I showed how to cut the shuttlecock with a dotted line..

HOW TO CALCULATE THE LENGTH OF THE SHUTTER INSIDE THE “SNAIL”

Now the question you should be asking is:

I answer:

It is likely that there is a tricky mathematical formula here. But over the years, I have already lost all my mathematical thinking skills. Therefore, I will show you one simple way. It seems to me that it will help you calculate the length of the shuttlecock inside the snail even better than any formulas.

Here's how I do it:

We need a shuttlecock of 60 cm and a width of 4 cm. We draw a cross - just in case, we draw larger sides of the cross, with a margin. Next, on the sides of the cross we mark all the points that are needed - the first points are 3 cm from the edge of the cross (although you can start not at three cm, but at any other distance) - then we placed all the dots and began to “wind” lines with a pencil around the center of the cross - draw a snail. We drew a few turns and stopped. Now we need to check the length of the resulting shuttlecock - maybe it’s enough to draw.

To do this, take a thread, measure a piece of 60 cm on it (as much as we need a shuttlecock) - cut off this piece of thread. It will be for us. That is, this snail-like method of cutting a shuttlecock ultimately gives us a shuttlecock with an uneven degree of waviness. Therefore, such a shuttlecock is suitable for those models where uniform waviness is not needed. serve as a measure of the length of the shuttlecock.

And now we lay this thread along the spiral of the snail - from the place in the center of the snail where the “trunk” of the shuttlecock begins, and move in a circle to the tail. In the place where the thread ends there will be an edge of our shuttlecock 60 cm long.

This is how we check - if the snail ends earlier than the piece of thread, then we still need to continue drawing our spiral. And if you have enough snails, then stop drawing – you can cut out the shuttlecock.

That's all about this method.

Now let's move on to the fifth lesson of our flounce series of articles and take a little break - in this lesson we will talk about ruffles and frills. Or, if you are not tired, you can immediately jump to the sixth lesson - where we ourselves will model figured shuttlecocks.

PART 5

In this part, we will take a little break from lessons on modeling shuttlecocks. In this article I will tell and show everything I know about ruffles and frills, how they are designed and how they are sewn on. We have already sewn something with ruffles - remember these panties for a baby diaper.

Now let's take a little look at the models of clothes decorated with ruffles and get filled with ideas for your future clothes, sewn with your own hands.

Let's start with children's dresses and tunics:

Thanks to the ruffles, the simplest cut children's dress can become simply VERY elegant.

Ruffles on clothes for newborns look very touching.

Pink ruffles on pink dresses for pink girls are the very embodiment of tenderness.

Ruffles can also be sewn in frequent rows over the entire surface of the dress. By the way, in fabric stores you can find fabric with strips of ruffles and frills already sewn onto it.

Ruffles also look good on older girls. Only the color of the fabric for models with ruffles is better to choose a calmer one - gray, black, brown, white.

Well, now let's figure out how to properly sew and attach ruffles and frills.

WE MAKE RUCHES AND FRILLS.

How long should the strip be for ruffles and frills?

Strips of fabric for ruffles and frills are cut in a straight line.

But you also need to know that the thinner and softer the fabric, the tighter the gathering on the ruffle should be so that it holds its shape. This means that the longer the strip of fabric for such a ruffle should be. It turns out that if we make ruffles from soft fabric, we need to multiply the length of the sewing line not 1.5 times, but 2 times or maybe more. I always cut off a strip with a margin, then when you start assembling, as you go, it becomes clear what density of assembly looks better.

And if we plan to make a pleated frill, then the strip of fabric should be 3 times longer than the sewing line of the frill.

Should the edges of the ruffle be processed?

If you decide to process the ruffle cut.

The first method is a zigzag stitch.

We bend the cut to the wrong side by 5-7 mm and attach it to the wrong side with a zigzag seam (the width of the zigzag seam is 2-3 mm (but it’s okay if it’s different).

Method two - with a regular line

How to make a gather on a ruffle

We take a strip of fabric, set the widest seam stitch on the machine (the larger the better), and use this wide stitch to sew a line evenly in the middle of the strip.

How to make a gather on a frill.

Exactly the same as on the ruffle - only we lay a large stitch line not in the center of the strip, but along its edge.

How to sew ruffles to a product

PART 6

In this part we will learn how to sew flounces and frills to the product.

The flounce and frill are sewn to the product in approximately the same way. The only difference is that our frill has a gathered edge. And the shuttlecock has an arched edge. We remember that the flounce is cut in a circle, and the sewing line of the flounce is the line of the inner circumference of its “donut”. For those who haven’t read about it, here it is – “Sewing a shuttlecock – the most understandable lessons. Part 2"

There is one secret when sewing on a flounce. To prevent wrinkles at the sewing line, you need to follow 2 rules:

Rule one - seam allowance at the edge of the flounce should not exceed 5 mm.

Rule two - along the rounded edge of the flounce you need to do it before sewing small cuts with scissors at a distance of 1-2 cm from each other. This will allow the shuttlecock to straighten in the area of its sewing edge. And the machine stitch will run along a smooth fabric and will not cause any pinching or distortion, spoiling the graceful shape of the shuttlecock wave.

Do I need to process the edge of the flounce and frill?

In the previous article about ruffles and frills, we wrote about whether it is necessary to process the outer (outer) cut edge of the flounce. According to my observations, in models made from non-flowing fabrics, these very edges of the flounce cuts are often not processed. Most often, such disregard for the processing of product cuts is observed in frivolous casual clothing: in tunics of a bold cut, in slobish tops, in special models with a torn and shabby design - and this is very beautiful. In my wardrobe I have my favorite top - its flounces are made of very loose materials and the edges are not processed - this gives the product a certain charm. From time to time, I simply use scissors to cut off the peeled hair and the threads that have come out of the cut - and that’s it, I continue to wear it with great pleasure.))

It's up to you to decide what edge of the shuttlecock you need. If you decide to process, you can read about options for processing sections on a particular fabric in my special articles. If you sew knitwear, you can read about processing cuts in the article “Sewing from knitwear.” If you work with silk or loose fabric, then in another article I told you how to work with silk. And in short, I can mention it here too.

How to process the edge of a flounce or frill.

Suitable for processing shuttlecocks:

Overlock stitch(on an overlocker) or pseudo-overlock stitch (on a regular modern machine)

Can be processed with a regular stitch– bend 5 mm edges of the flounce to the wrong side – sew 2 mm from the fold line – trim off the excess edge at the very line – fold it again by 3 mm and stitch a new line along the same line from above.

Can be processed with a zigzag line- in small steps, repeat 2 or 3 times to get a thicker protection (this is especially worth doing if the fabric is capricious). And then trim off the excess along the very edge of the zigzag (slowly and carefully).

It is possible along the edge of the shuttlecock sew lace, braid or bias tape. We put the lace braid on the cut of the flounce from the front side (the overlap of the lace on the edge of the flounce can be 0.5-0.7 cm) and adjust the braid with a zigzag seam. After sewing, carefully cut off the edge of the flounce (remaining on the wrong side under the lace) with scissors near the stitching.

The flounce can be treated with lining. That is, cut out exactly the same flounce from the same or another suitable fabric. Place both pieces together with right sides inward and stitch along the outer (larger) edge, then turn them with the seams inside (so that the seam is hidden between the layers of the flounce) and iron the seam. The result is a double shuttlecock with a perfect edge.

HOW TO SEW A FRILL OR FRILL TO THE EDGE OF A PRODUCT:

In these pictures I showed how to sew a flounce to the bottom edge (the hem of a skirt or tunic) or to the top edge (for example, to the neckline).

Fig 1– the flounce can be sewn to the edge in this way – we place the front side of the flounce, on top of the edge of the product with the front side down – we place it under the machine foot and stitches. Then we lift the edge of the product and get a sewn flounce or frill, where both edges of the cut remained on the wrong side.

Fig 2– the flounce is sewn between two layers of fabric – for two-layer products – for example, a skirt and lining. A transparent tunic and its opaque lining. First we sew the flounce to one layer of fabric, and therefore sew another layer of fabric to this “sandwich”. We turn the parts up and straighten them. And you can add an additional fixing seam on top of the triple sandwich of seams at a distance of 2 mm from the line of connection of the parts.

Fig 3– here we show how to sew a flounce to the top edge of a product (for example, when we sew a flounce on the neck of a top or dress). First we sew the flounce to the edge. And then we apply edging tape cut from the same or another fabric to the edge. You can make a trim from lace, so it will also turn out to be a beautiful decorative element.

If you plan to sew an elastic band at the junction of the flounce with the edge of the neckline, then first the flounce is sewn to the edge of the neckline, then the elastic is sewn to the same edge (with the required degree of tension). And only after that the entire structure is covered with edging tape. The width of the binding should be such that the edges of the sewing of the binding itself do not touch the elastic. The seam must not be allowed to pierce and damage its elastic fibers.

HOW TO SEW A SHUTTER INTO THE SEAMS OF THE PARTS CONNECTION:

Most convenient sew a flounce into a natural seam, connecting the parts of our product. That is, we cut the solid part along the line where the flounce is sewn in. We get two parts and sew a flounce to the edge of one of them. And then we connect these two parts back together - to one of which a flounce is already sewn along the edge. Thus, the shuttlecock gets into the seam connecting the halves of our product.

Fig 4- for example, our flounce will be sewn between the armhole and sleeve cap, or between the top and bottom of the dress, or between the left and right halves of the dress.

Fig 5- in the same way, you can insert not one, but two flounces of different widths into this stitching seam (i.e. a seam that sews together two parts) - to get tiered flounce or tiered frill. There can be more than two tiers. We first fold the double flounces or frills, combine their cuts, you can even stitch them to each other, and only then sew them to the main part.

HOW TO CONNECT A FLUTLE OR FRILL WITH A SOLID PART:

Let's say we already have an almost finished (or ready-made) dress, skirt, tunic, and we want to decorate them with a flounce or frill. And somehow you need to attach this flounce or frill to a solid part of the dress - how to do this so that the edges of the seam are not visible?

Fig 6– you can hide the edge of a flounce or ruffle in a fold of this single piece of fabric. How it turns out We apply the frill or wave face up to the intended line, sew it with a regular stitch or a small zigzag. Further we bend the main thing tightly at the edge of the sewn frill (that is, as if we closed two halves of a book, and the shuttlecock remained inside, like a bookmark at its central spine). Then we turn the fabric over to the other side up (the one on which our stitching is visible) and lay a new stitch directly on top of the old one. Now we bend the edge of the canvas (we open the book) and now our shuttlecock is in its place and its edge is hidden and sewn into the fold of the solid canvas. For strength and stability of the seam, you can sew another seam 2 mm from the shuttlecock connection line.

Fig 7- Can sew the flounce upside down. That is, place the edge of the flounce to the intended sewing line upside down and wrong side down. Baste, stitch - and then we lower the flounce down, it folds back and turns out to have its front side already turned towards us, and the seam and edge remain covered by the flounce. Before this, it is better to process the sewing edge of the flounce so that it does not crumble. For those who are unclear about the explanation and the picture, see a detailed lesson on sewing a bodysuit with a skirt - we sewed a skirt onto a children's bodysuit using exactly the same inverted method.

Fig 8– before sewing, we bend the edge of the flounce or frill to the wrong side, you can baste it or iron it. And then we sew such a curved edge with a simple or zigzag stitch to the intended sewing line.

That's all I wanted to tell you about how to sew on a flounce or frill.

PART 7

As you remember, in the very first article of the series about flounces, where I showed you many options for using flounces in decorating clothes, I promised that we would analyze some of the flounces presented there in the very near future and learn how to model them ourselves. This is what we will do today. You and I will model the shuttlecock with our own hands and eyes. With the eyes - because all shuttlecocks are modeled by eye. When modeling shuttlecocks, you may not need to maintain millimeter (or even centimeter) accuracy.

Now we will start working with you, and you will understand everything yourself.

For example, let’s look at this oblique flounce in a dress with an asymmetrical neckline. Look carefully at the photo. We see that the left side of the shuttlecock (the side that is located at the armpit) is not as long as the side that comes down from the girl’s shoulder in the photo.

It can also be noted that the flounce has a small gather at its sewing edge– most likely in this dress model it is slightly gathered with elastic.

It is also worth noting that this shuttlecock has not a strong waviness factor– that is, a weak wave, very little pomp.

All these observations will be reflected in our drawings and will be taken into account when constructing this shuttlecock model.

In the drawings next to the photograph, I depicted the entire process of modeling such a shuttlecock.

Step one. We take our pattern for the base or the pattern for this particular dress model. We need the pattern as a guide so that we know in what proportions to draw our shuttlecock.

We place the pattern on a new sheet of paper (I use a roll of cheap wallpaper) and trace our dress pattern.

Step two. And now, on top of the drawn contours of the outlined pattern, we draw the outlines of our shuttlecock with a pencil of a different color. That is, we place the boundaries of the future shuttlecock. The outlines can be absolutely whatever you draw, and that’s what your shuttlecock will be. In this model, we draw a flounce line on the left side from the armpit and almost to the waist. On the right side we draw a line from the middle of the shoulder and a few centimeters below the armhole. We connect both sides with smooth rounded lines - one line will be the bottom edge of the shuttlecock. The other top line (from the shoulder to the opposite armpit) is its top edge sewn to the neckline.

Step three. We have drawn the boundaries of the shuttlecock - and now we take scissors and cut out this curved trapezoid. We take the cut out part and begin to cut it into transverse pieces along its entire length (like a sausage). The width of the pieces is arbitrary. Now on a new sheet of paper we lay out the pieces in the form of a fan. We do this in such a way that the lower sides are further apart from each other than the upper sides.

If the shuttlecock did not have an elastic band at the top, then we could not make any distance between the pieces along the top line of the shuttlecock (we would only push the lower ends of the pieces apart).

Each piece can be pinned to a sheet of paper so that they do not slip, or secured with pieces of tape. When all the “segments” take their place in the round dance, you can take a pencil and trace the contours of the resulting semicircular figure. This figure will be the finished pattern of our shuttlecock. It can be safely transferred to fabric.

By cutting out such a detail from fabric, we will get exactly the kind of shuttlecock we wanted.

It will be slightly wavy, because we did not make strong distances between the pieces.

It will be different in length in the armpit area and in the shoulder area- because we initially (even before cutting into pieces) gave it such parameters.

And it will have a margin of length along the sewing line necessary for gathering onto the elastic- because we moved the pieces apart not only along the lower edge of the shuttlecock (i.e., the outer edge of the circle), but also left a little space between the upper ends of the pieces (i.e., along the inner circle of the swirling figure of the shuttlecock).

This is the principle used to model (draw, cut and lay in a circle) ALL other shuttlecock models. Yes, yes, all those models of shuttlecocks that you saw in numerous photographs in the first article are modeled according to the same principle. Don't believe me? Let's try to do the same on another example of a dress with a flounce - for this I invite you to the next article.

In this part we will consolidate the knowledge and I invite you to again feel like a fashion designer at the top of the fashion Olympus and step by step develop another wonderful shuttlecock. Here it is.

Happy sewing.

Olga Klishevskaya, especially for the site “Women’s Conversations”.

Frills, flounces and ruffles are often confused with each other. Despite their obvious external similarity, these are still different parts, so let’s figure out what their fundamental difference is from each other.

Ruffles

Ruffle (from the French “ruche”), as a decorative element in clothing, appeared in Russia in the second half of the 18th century, but gained its particular popularity much later. In the 19th century, ruffles were abundantly used to decorate necklines of dresses, sleeves and headdresses.

A ruffle is, as a rule, a narrow straight strip of fabric, which runs along the entire length, exactly in the middle of the part. Asymmetrical variations are also acceptable, when the strip is cut out a little wider than usual and is gathered a little to the right or left of the line of the middle of the part. In any case, the ruffles will be located on both sides of the part (cut strip). Then the ruffles are sewn to the product exactly at the gathered seam.

If there is not enough fabric, you can sew a composite ruffle from several parts (strips).

Ruffles can be single-layer or multi-layer. Single-layer ruffles can be made with a placket for a fastener, for example, in a blouse.

Pattern:

A cluster of corals, or maybe a stormy waterfall... Voluminous ruffles on a straight silk dress, stitched...

Frill

Frills are always cut in a straight line. In this case, it is allowed to cut the part both along the longitudinal and across the fabric. Then the frill is gathered along one long edge to the desired width and only then sewn to the product, laying a line on the sewing machine close to the gathered line.

Pattern:

What's a wedding without dancing? This dress with thin spaghetti straps can be sewn in the last…

Ruffles are a great solution for recycling fabric scraps you have left over from past sewing projects. You can sew them into a charming skirt for a girl using multi-colored frills:

Or decorate the finished item with a frill:

Shuttlecocks

Ruffles, unlike ruffles and frills, do not need to be gathered, unless you are pursuing the goal of achieving maximum fluffiness of this detail. Due to the cut, one side of the flounce is straight, and the other is wavy.

Pattern:

In such a dress, you are guaranteed a good mood. Playful flounces arranged asymmetrically...

If the model does not have a flounce, and you want to decorate the neckline with it, for example, or lengthen the sleeves using flounces, you can cut out this romantic detail without a pattern:

Or use a ready-made solution from another model:

In addition, flounces are also used as a decorative element in the interior; most often, curtains are sewn partially or completely with flounces:

In order for the open cuts of the flounces to look neat and the edge to lie wavy, they must be properly processed, for example, on an overlocker with a rolled seam or a narrow zigzag stitch on a sewing machine. Even a beginner can do this, details in our master class:

In addition, there are so-called complex frills or ruffles. Their main difference from their counterparts is in the fabric used, for example, pleated and in an unusual form, when ruffles are made from a strip on which one-sided or counter folds have previously been laid. A striking example of a complex decorative element is the frill in the shape of hearts, which is traditionally decorated.

Dresses with frills have always been popular and in demand. Graceful ruffles add femininity and romance to the models. By varying different accessories, you can choose an outfit with ruffles both for a walk in the park and for an official reception. We will tell you in this article how patterns for dresses with ruffles are made and what features need to be taken into account when choosing the type of ruffles.

Frills are an interesting detail, but require a careful approach when choosing a specific solution.

Let's look at how you can decorate a dress with ruffles:

ruffles on the shoulders - dresses of this cut allow you to demonstrate the beauty of a woman’s shoulders. An excellent solution for going to the cinema or a disco;

ruffles on the chest are an ideal choice for women with small breasts. The model is almost universal in purpose;

frills along the neckline are a spectacular solution that creates a festive look. They look especially elegant on dresses with an asymmetrical cut;

flounces on the sleeves are a never-out-of-fashion solution. Such models are extremely popular all over the world;

frill at the waist - a rather complex cut that creates unusual options;

flounces at the back add piquancy and uniqueness to the look. Look great on ladies with large hips;

flounces on the skirt - there are several options for placing frills at different heights. They all make dresses more magnificent and interesting. Dresses with frills on the skirt are often made for festive events and dances. This type of clothing is also suitable for everyday wear;

vertical flounces - a model with such ruffles is perfect for women with small breasts;

frills along the entire length of the dress are a stylish solution that adds femininity and sophistication.

Knitted dress with vertical ruffles

Straight silhouette dress, no darts, dropped sleeves, semicircular neckline. The length of the dress is 5-6 cm above the knees, but you can change it as you wish.

For sewing dresses need to prepare:

knitted fabric, soft and draping well - 1.2-1.3 m;
threads, sewing accessories.

Description

For cutting, you can use a ready-made pattern or make it yourself. To do this, on the main pattern we close the chest darts on the back and front; we do not make darts on the waist. At the side seams we add 1.5-2.0 cm for a loose fit.

Extend the shoulder line by 4-5 cm, draw a new armhole line.

In addition to the back and front parts, we need to cut out:

ruffles - three stripes 4 cm by 0.8-0.9 m;
belt – strip 9 cm by 1.5 m;
oblique facings of the neck - three strips 2.5 cm wide. The length of two should be equal to the length of the roll-out, the length of the third should be equal to the length of the roll-out.

First of all, we will process the ruffle sections with an overlocker. To do this, set the necessary modes.

We process both cuts.

To obtain uniform gathers on the ruffles, we install a special foot on the machine.

Set the required stitch parameters.

We carry out the line, having received the necessary gathers.

We place the ruffles on the shelf and secure them with pins.

On the machine we set the required straight stitch parameters.

Since ruffles are quite a voluminous detail, it is advisable to use a special foot for thick fabrics to sew them on.

We attach ruffles.

We overlock the seams on the shoulders and sides.

We use bias tape to trim the armholes and neckline.

On the front side we perform decorative stitching along the armholes and neckline.

We process the bottom of the dress with an overlocker, turn it in 15-20 mm, and sew it on a machine.

We fold the blank for the belt in half, stitch it on three sides, turn it inside out, and iron it. We sew up the remaining open area with a hand-blind stitch, tucking the edges inward.

The ruffled dress is ready!

Dress with flounces: video master class

Dress with frills on the shoulders

For sewing dresses need to prepare:

stretch – satin – 1.1-1.2 m;
bias silk binding for processing flounce cuts - 3 m;
threads to match the color of the fabric, sewing tools.

Description

For cutting, a straight dress pattern is used. We transfer the chest darts into the side seams.

We mark the patterns on the fabric and cut out the shelf, the back, and four blanks for the flounces.

We sew darts on the back and front parts. Considering the structure of the fabric, it is advisable to use a knitting needle in this work.

We sew the side seams and process the cuts using an overlocker.

We make seams on the shoulders and overlock the cuts.

We apply bias tape to the front side of the flounce along the outer contour. Secure with pins.

We sew the binding.

We process the inner edge of the shuttlecock with an overlocker.

We sew the flounces one by one with a basting stitch and attach them. We sew the cuts.

We turn away the flounce and perform a decorative stitch.

We repeat the operation for the second sleeve.

To process the neckline and armhole, we cut out bias tape from the main fabric with a width of 25 mm. We process the sections of the armholes and neckline with this trim.

We check the length of the dress and process the bottom edge with an overlocker.

We make a hem of 3.0-3.5 cm and stitch.

The dress is ready!

Dress with frills made of chiffon: MK video

Dress with ruffle neckline

To sew a dress you need:

thin cotton fabric - with a width of 1.2-1.4 m you need 1.1-1.2 m;
lining fabric – satin;
zipper 30-35 cm long;

Description

Lining

The basic dress pattern is used as a basis. All constructions are made for a dress size 46. On the back pattern, draw a horizontal line through the lower point of the armhole. We model the front according to the figure below.

The finished patterns for the front and back parts should look as shown in the following photo.

Since the lining is made without darts, it is better to cut along the bias thread to ensure a better fit to the figure.

We cut out the lining parts, grind them down, and process the cuts with an overlocker. We process the upper sections with bias tape. We make two folds along the bottom edge and stitch.

Dress

Let's start modeling the front pattern by transferring the chest dart to the side seam. Then we will draw the desired rollout shape. On the back pattern we draw a roll-out line.

For decorative ruffle, cut out a strip 5 x 110 cm.

We sew a zipper into the side seam of the dress and sew the side seams. We process the seam allowances with an overlocker. We process the armholes and roll-out with bias tape.

We process the ruffle sections with an overlocker. We gather the part to the required length and sew it to the neck.

We sew around the bottom edge of the dress, turn it under and stitch it.

Dress with flounce at the bottom

For making a dress need to prepare:

textile;
interlining;
threads to match the fabric, sewing accessories.

Description

For modeling we use the basic pattern of a dress and a straight sleeve.

In the finished pattern, shorten the shoulder line and draw a new armhole line.

Then we widen and deepen the neckline.

We shorten the back and front patterns to the required length, expanding them downwards. In this case, we first determine the length of the shuttlecock.

We mark and cut out all the details.

In addition to the main parts, we need to cut out the hem facings for the front and back neckline, 4-5 cm wide. To do this, fold the fabric in half and apply the folded front and back part to the fold line.

In this case, it is important that the directions of the grain threads on the fabric and parts coincide.

We strengthen the facings with non-woven fabric.

We sew in the chest darts, turn them up and iron them. We process the edges of the side seam allowances of the front and back with an overlocker.

We sew the shoulder seams and process the cuts with an overlocker. We process the lower edges of the sleeves with an overlocker.

We sew the sleeves into the armhole and sew over the edges of the allowances. We fold the lower edges of the sleeves twice and stitch them. Instead of machine stitching, you can sew a blind seam by hand.

We make a side and sleeve seam using a common pass.

Stitch the neck facing along one side, forming an open ring. We process the outer edges of the facing with an overlocker, then we grind the facing into a ring.

We attach the facing to the neck rollout.

At the shoulder seam areas we trim the allowances, removing excess fabric thickness. In the remaining areas of stitching, we make notches on the facing allowances. At the same time, we do not make notches on the neck allowances.

We unscrew the facing, turn the seam allowance onto it and sew. The stitching should extend from the stitching seam at a distance of 2-3 mm.

We fold the facing onto the wrong side of the dress with a small piping and iron it.

Sew by hand with a hidden seam.

We assemble the shuttlecock part into a ring and mark its center. On both sides of the center we sew a line with a wide step along the edge of the part. We gather the shuttlecock, pulling the stitching threads.

In this case, the length of one part of the shuttlecock should be equal to the length of the lower cut of the back, the length of the second part of the shuttlecock should be equal to the length of the lower cut of the shelf.

We distribute the folds of the gathers evenly. We baste the frill onto the lower sections of the dress, then attach the flounce and overlay the sections.

The ruffles of the shuttlecock should not be ironed to avoid damage.

We make a double turn along the bottom edge and stitch. If desired, the bottom edge can be hemmed by hand using a blind stitch. In the areas of seam hems, it is advisable to cut off the seam allowances to reduce the thickness of the fabric.

Iron the finished dress.