Constructing a base pattern is the most understandable way (for beginners). Pattern for the base of the dress. Step-by-step instructions for creating a pattern for the base of a dress Dress styles with patterns and diagrams

Patterns for women's dresses from the Grasser bureau

A dress is the type of clothing that can best highlight the beauty of a woman’s figure. Especially if such a dress is sewn individually. The GRASSER online store offers simple dress patterns that will be of interest to both beginners and experienced seamstresses. In our catalog you can choose patterns for a wide variety of models and for different female figures. Such patterns are created by true professionals from our clothing design and modeling bureau. This ensures that you will encounter minimal complications or problems when sewing your dress.

Advantages of purchasing a ready-made pattern from our bureau:

• The pattern is made for a specific size (from 38 to 54);
• We offer patterns of modern dress models, inspired by fashion shows;
• The pattern comes with an accessible description with diagrams and instructions;
• All dress patterns can be purchased at a very low price.

It’s easy to sew a dress using a pattern!

Even if you are new to tailoring, with a ready-made pattern, the entire process of creating a dress will not take you much time. It is very convenient that all patterns are designed for printing them either on a regular printer on A4 sheets or on a wide-format plotter. Immediately after paying for the order, you will receive your pattern in PDF format, which you can download from your personal account. Using our simple patterns, you will get real pleasure by creating an original new thing for your wardrobe.

Ready-made dress pattern for a business woman.

Dress with reliefs and yokes, pockets and sleeves at the cuffs.

In the middle of the front there is a fastener with a placket (loops and buttons). The plank ends with a counter fold. At the waist there is a small decorative belt with a buckle. On the shelf, the line of vertical relief turns into the line of the pocket. Turn-down collar. All details are stitched with a finishing stitch, emphasizing the cut lines. The length of the dress at the back is 102 cm.

You can adjust the length of the dress, as well as the length of the sleeves, yourself, choosing the best option for yourself.

The pattern is given in actual size without seam allowances.

• Bust 96
• Waist 80
• Hip circumference 104

Preparing the pattern for work is simple. Download, print the pattern sheets on a regular printer and connect them according to the diagram. The pattern is the order in which the pattern sheets are connected. It is printed on the first sheet.

Be sure to check the scale for consistency. On a printed sheet with a 10x10 cm square depicted, sides of 10 cm should correspond to exactly 10 centimeters. To do this, in the printer settings, set the document print scale to 100% (no scaling).

Ready-made patterns are given for a conventionally typical figure. If your figure differs from the conventionally typical one, you should adjust the pattern taking into account the characteristics of your physique and only then start cutting.

Don't forget to give seam allowances, as well as additional allowances in those places where clarification is possible during fitting.

Having swept away the parts, try on the product, make all the necessary adjustments and start sewing.

For those who want to create a pattern for a specific figure according to the measurements taken, we have a detailed step-by-step instructions for constructing the base of the dress semi-adjacent silhouette.

Download the pattern >>>

The famous Coco Chanel once said: “If you remember a woman, but don’t remember the dress she was wearing, then she was dressed perfectly!” Find your perfect dress with us and sew it!
We offer you the most accurate dress patterns for every taste and for any occasion: short and long dresses, patterns for dresses with and without sleeves, full-length and figure-fitting dresses. You can use ready-made model solutions, or model your own dresses using the modeling methods presented at the Sewing School.
If you are new to sewing, start with simpler models - sew a dress with a simple silhouette, evaluate the accuracy of the pattern, and the fit. If the dress fits perfectly, move on to more complex models. Use high-quality fabrics and threads, because it is the fabric that shines in dresses of a simple cut, creating a chic image of a sophisticated lady. Be sure to first build one, according to which you will model your future creation.
We have prepared for you a lot of useful tips, master classes, ready-made dress patterns, and basic patterns for different body types.
Sewing with us is easy; the main thing that is required of you is a great desire to master this fascinating and creative skill. Are you ready to plunge into the world of fashion with us? Then choose and sew!

On the eve of the holidays, the Sewing School of Anastasia Korfiati has prepared a pleasant surprise for all readers of the site. Especially for you, Anastasia Korfiati created a simple-cut, but incredibly spectacular festive dress made of blue-emerald glitter with a degrade effect. This model is suitable for almost any figure and, depending on the color and quality of the material from which you sew it, will look completely different. Sparkling glitter, luxurious jacquard, satin, silk and even lace - any elegant fabric is suitable for this dress. A ready-made pattern for a festive dress in 5 sizes and tips on modeling for a non-standard figure are in our next lesson.

A simple cut, but very warm and comfortable dress with a loose silhouette was created specifically for the cold season. The model is made of soft textured knitted fabric and has several non-standard details: counter pleats on the sleeves simulate volume, large patch pockets cut across create geometry, an original hem at the bottom edge adds lightness to the product. Spectacular buttons act as bright accents and give the model a complete look. And even if you're not a fan of short dresses, pairing this warm dress with tight skinny jeans, leggings or thick wool tights will make you feel comfortable in any situation. Pattern and master class on sewing a warm dress are in this lesson.

The quality of the material used for sewing is often the starting point when creating a product sketch. The density, elasticity coefficient and color of the material give rise to the outlines and silhouette lines of the future model in the designer’s imagination. For our next lesson, we created a model from dense, “heavy” synthetic jersey in a dark plum color, and when working on the model, it was the material that dictated the silhouette of the dress. The result is a product that can highlight all the advantages of a female figure!

A one-piece sleeve is not only a very popular modern trend, but also an excellent solution for clothing of soft shapes, because the shoulder line of such a sleeve turns out to be a streamlined, smooth shape, and the configuration of the shoulder slope and the width of the sleeve itself can be varied depending on the angle of the sleeve during modeling. Let's take a closer look at what types of one-piece sleeves there are, how they differ, and how to model a one-piece sleeve with a gusset yourself.

Each fashion show by the famous designer and inimitable style icon Victoria Beckham is a real event and always receives a huge number of admiring reviews. The dresses she creates almost never go out of fashion - elegant shapes, flowing silhouettes and enveloping fabrics are the main components of the success of her models. Due to numerous requests from our subscribers, we are publishing a pattern that we developed based on a dress from Victoria Beckham.

Puffy voluminous sleeves are a very bright and feminine trend of the season. And since this style emphasizes the figure even more and makes it very graceful, girls are happy to follow the fashion trend and choose dresses with similar sleeves. A striking example of this is Celine Dion’s recent appearance at the Alexandre Vauthier show, where the singer appeared in a floor-length minidress with grotesque puffy sleeves. We do not suggest that you plunge headlong into bold experiments, but start with a sophisticated and feminine dress with an open shoulder line and voluminous sleeves.

We couldn't ignore the original idea of ​​a viscose dress with a high ascot collar, the bow of which is sewn separately and tied using large eyelets installed directly on the corners of the collar. We are sure that after looking at this wonderful dress, you will want to sew something similar for your wardrobe!

When preparing for vacation, it is better to think through your wardrobe in advance. Clothes should not only be bright, but also comfortable, and the fabrics from which you plan to sew yourself a beach dress or tunic should allow the skin to breathe and at the same time not form too many folds and creases on them when you take them off when you come to the beach. The ideal material for such clothing is undoubtedly cotton jersey. And today we offer you two luxurious models of beach dresses that you can sew without any pattern in just half an hour. All you need for this is a piece of material and a sewing machine.

For the hardworking - a bright light burns through life, for the lazy - a dim candle

Constructing a base pattern - THE MOST CLEAR METHOD (for beginners)

Good afternoon I would even say a beautiful day. Because we are finally starting a series of articles on tailoring for adults. We have already sewn a lot of things for little girls - both dresses and bodysuits are different - now we will sew for big girls. That is, for myself. And since you and I have already practiced sewing, the fear of the pioneer has passed.

THAT MEANS IT'S TIME TO TAKE A NEW FRONTIER. And master the wisdom of sewing using real adult patterns yourself, with your own hands and your own brains. We will draw the base pattern ourselves - in a new, easy way (I spent more than one week creating this lightweight method for creating a base pattern). And then we will sew a bunch of all kinds of dresses, tops and tunics.

No- I won’t give you a single finished pattern!

I'm not Madame Burda. I am Madame Klishevskaya.))) And the main harmfulness of my character is... That I will make your head work and give birth to bright and clear discoveries in the field of sewing. The easiest and most understandable of all types of art. Believe me, this is true.

Yes- sewing yourself is very easy and simple!

Right from scratch you will get more and more beautiful and well-tailored things.

Moreover, you will do everything yourself, without a state of hypnosis, but in a sober mind and clear memory. YOU will DO it - moreover, you will UNDERSTAND what exactly you are doing.

I will tell you the secrets that I know. Moreover, I will teach you to discover more and more secrets of the world of sewing and clothing design.

I will not lead you (blind and stupid) by the hand in the chaos of letters and numbers denoting the intricacy of numerous lines of the design drawing. NO, I WILL NOT TAKE YOU HERE:

Well, you must admit, one such picture can instill fear and make a girl who doubts her own abilities really, really wants to sew a dress- But I wasn’t very good with geometry and drawing during my school years. Even I, who adore both of these school subjects, beat around the bush for several years, not daring to start delving into the construction of such a drawing: “How long will it take to draw something like this, and after all, everything must be calculated correctly and not get confused in the letters...”.

And, nevertheless, today we will draw a pattern.

We will draw a base pattern (you see a piece of it from above.))))

But - don’t be afraid - we will create our pattern a little differently. Away from the engineering design method - and closer to human understanding.

We will draw one for you - just one- pattern.

And then from it we will create more and more new dress models. And it will be very easy and simple.

• No confusing formulas
• No confusing calculations.
• And without the letter-number cobweb.

So how? Have I already alleviated some of your concerns?

I'll relax now - we won't start drawing right now. First, we'll take a nice walk through the pattern. The purpose of the walk is to get to know and become friends with the pattern and remove the last doubt that you can sew any dress.

So... what is a pattern - the basis?

To put it figuratively, this is a cast of your body. This is your individual imprint. Any item sewn according to YOUR base pattern will fit YOUR figure perfectly.

Yes, you heard right - ANY THING can be sewn on the basis one single pattern. All dress models are born, modeled, and sewn from one source - this is the base pattern.

I will now prove it to you with an example. Even with three examples - in the form of photos and pictures.

Here is the first photo (below). Our pattern base is essentially your sheath dress (the one that fits your body perfectly). Dress made by yours pattern base, will follow all the curves your his bodies. This simple sheath dress is sewn using a regular base pattern. You see, it’s like a plaster cast of a girl’s figure.

And today, having drawn the base pattern, you can safely cut it on the fabric - and you will get a dress like this. The only thing you can change is the neckline - giving it the shape that suits your face shape.

All other (any kind) dress models are just a modification of a sheath dress - fantasies on a free theme.

That's how it works in the fashion world.

One day a fashion designer thought...“What if the bodice of the dress at the top is held on the shoulders by a round yoke (yellow outlines - figure below), and the bodice itself is made in the form of overlapping intersecting triangles (red outlines - figure below). The result is what we see in the photo below.

Beautiful? Beautiful! What did the fashion designer base his fantasies on? Based on a pattern. And you can come up with something of your own. We women have just a lot of imagination.

By the way - since we’re talking about a round yoke here - this site already has one of my articles on creating and

And another fashion designer thought: “What if you give the sheath dress a looser cut - make it wider. And make the shoulder line longer so that it hangs over the arm.” And as a result, a new model is born (photo below) - also very beautiful. And it's very simple.

You can do this too. If you will UNDERSTAND what the base pattern consists of. And by what laws does it exist?

That is why I don’t want to stupidly give you instructions on creating a base pattern (like “draw a line from point P6 to point P5 and mark the place where it intersects line X with the next point...” - ugh!).

I want to awaken you bitch. I want you to feel the pattern, to know its soul. Haven't learned to see what a simple drawing hides behind a photograph of any dress, even an intricately tailored one.

Therefore, for the next 30 minutes we will not draw anything - we will walk through the pattern itself. Let's get acquainted with all its elements - find out what each line serves, and why it is located here and drawn this way.

After such an “educational walk” you will feel a joyful clarity of understanding of everything, everything, everything. It's as if you've already drawn basic patterns many times. And you will take up the drawing with the feeling that this is a couple of trifles. Ha! Business!

As the sage said: “We are afraid only of what we cannot understand and explain logically. But as soon as the thing that frightens us becomes clear to us, it ceases to cause us fear.”

So let’s go and tame this “terrible beast” - the base pattern. Let's tame and draw in 20 minutes. Yes, yes, in 20 minutes - because after a walk - the pattern drawing will seem to you an old and familiar simple drawing - like a grid for playing tic-tac-toe.

Where does the base pattern come from?

So where does the base pattern come from - usually it is obtained from the following drawing:

The drawing contains half of the back part + half of the front part.

We will also draw a similar drawing with you - only more simple and understandable.

And what these halves are needed for, and where to use them - now I will clearly show everything.

Here (!) I dug up a wonderful sample - below - in the photograph of a black and white dress, our halves are very clearly visible - both the back half and the front half. So to speak - clearly and understandably.

Yes, in the Potnovian language the halves are called “shelves”. Today we will draw these same front and back shelves. But first, let’s take a closer look at what elements each shelf consists of. And most importantly, I will tell you why each element is needed and what it serves.

To make everything as clear as possible, I will illustrate each of the elements both in pictures and in photographs of real dress models.

First, let's get acquainted with two incomprehensible words: DOT And ARMHOLE.

Of course you may know them. Or maybe not. My job is to introduce you.

So, meet - PROYMA

When drawing a base pattern, you will create exactly that bend and size armhole that suits you – when the armhole does not pull or dig into your arm.

That is, the pattern base contains minimum armhole size allowed. You can model the armhole to your taste, in any configuration. But your fantasy armhole should not be smaller than on the base pattern. That is, the armhole is based on a pattern - These are the boundaries beyond which your imagination should not cross.

Your model armhole can be as large as you like - but it cannot be smaller than on the base pattern. More - yes, less - no - otherwise it will dig into the armpit. This is the rule in modeling designer armholes.

Now let's get acquainted with the darts.

BACK DARTS – shoulder dart + waist dart

In the picture above, I wrote everything about the back darts - and in the photo of the dress you can find 2 waist darts - one to the right of the zipper, the other to the left of the zipper.

But you don’t see the shoulder dart on this dress. And many dresses don’t have it either. Because for convenience and beauty, this dart is moved from the middle of the shoulder to the zipper (or along the edge of the armhole, where the sleeve will be, a corner is simply cut off). That is, the excess fabric is not pinched at the middle of the shoulder and is not sewn inside the dart. And the extra fabric cut in the form of a corner at the edge of the shelf, where the zipper is sewn in, or at the edge of the armhole - where the sleeve will be sewn in.

Also, darts are not necessary if you sew from stretch fabric - it itself follows the curves of your body and shrinks both in the shoulder and waist areas.

Let's get to know each other next... DARTS ON HALF FRONT

Oh, I could write a whole poem about her.

I spent a long time wondering how to explain more clearly - why it is needed and by what laws it lives. I thought and thought... and came up with an idea.

The fact is that a woman has breasts.))) That is, from the front, an adult girl is no longer flat. This means that the dress should be convex in the chest area. The dart on the front shoulder gives the dress that same bulge in the bust area. Now I’ll show you everything in pictures. How does this happen.

For example, we have a flat piece of fabric, but we need to make a convex piece out of it. To do this, you need to make a tuck on it. For example, this flat circle of cardboard will now become convex with the help of a dart.

And here's how a bust dart creates a bulge on the front detail

You will notice that the top of the convexity (that is, the peak of our round pyramid) is at the tip of the dart. Pay attention to this. Because when we draw the bust dart, the point of our dart will be at the top of the chest(where the nipple or bra cup is usually located).

Remember that sometimes you tried on a dress in your size in a store, which somehow strangely skewed on the chest - this is because the dart in the dress with its point was directed by the tops of your chest. So the breasts did not fit perfectly into the bulge of the dress. This product was not cut at the factory to suit your breast shape.

But that is not all, what I want to say about the chest dart.

The fact is that in almost all dresses this chest dart is located not on the shoulder- A on the side just below the armpit. This is done for beauty. The dart on the shoulder catches the eye more, but on the side, and even covered by the hand, it is not noticeable.

When creating a base pattern, we draw a chest dart on the shoulder only because it is more convenient to draw there from the point of view of constructing a drawing.

And after the drawing of the base pattern is ready, we very easily and simply transfer the dart from the shoulder area to the armpit area. Don’t think that you need to make new drawings for this. Nope, everything is simple here - like opening a carton of milk - one minute and that’s it.

Here, in the picture below I schematically depicted transferring the bust dart from the shoulder to the side seam under the arm.

Well, do you already feel how wiser you have become in these 15 minutes?))) Or there will be more... Let's continue our walk through the pattern and now let's get acquainted with the lines. Horizontal lines

CHEST LINE

The first acquaintance is the chest line. (It’s a beautiful dress, isn’t it? We’ll make it for you. Don’t even hesitate)

The bust line is the most remarkable line on the pattern. It is so convenient to focus on it when drawing a base pattern because:

• We know that we finish drawing the back waist dart at the bust line.
• We know that we finish drawing the front waist dart not reaching 4 cm from the chest line.
• We know that the shoulder dart is in the front - we finish drawing it at the chest line.
• We know that the lower edges of the armholes also follow the bust line.

Well, no, of course, you don’t know that yet. I will give all these simple rules when we start drawing. And now I just want you to know that when drawing many elements of a pattern, you can simply focus on the chest line (and there is no need to painstakingly put down these letter-number dots).

As you can see, there’s a lot of everything!! Therefore, go ahead - study, sew and enjoy life)))

WHAT TO DO NEXT - WITH THE PATTERN BASE? - you ask

And we will start sewing according to the base pattern of the TOP. Namely tops, T-shirts, tunics and then dresses.

You might ask, “Hey, why not just dresses?” I give the answer to this question in the first article of the series. So to be continued)))

Happy sewing!

Take the following measurements:

For example, I use the standard size 48, and you take measurements from your figure or from the figure of the person for whom you are going to sew this dress.

On the left side of the prepared sheet of paper, draw a vertical line on which to mark the length of the dress, in our case 110 cm, and put points A and H. Draw perpendicular lines through A and H to the right.

From A to the right, set aside half the chest circumference plus 5 cm. and place point B (48+5=53cm). Draw a line from B down to the intersection with the bottom line and place point H1.

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From A down, set the length of the back to the waist plus 0.5 cm and put T (38 + 0.5 = 38.5 cm). From T to the right, draw a line to the intersection with line BH1, at the intersection place point T1.

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From T down, set aside 1/2 of the length of the back to the waist and place B (38/2=19cm). From B to the right, draw a line, mark the intersection with BH1 as B1.

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From A to the right, set aside the width of the back plus 1.5 cm and put A1 (18 + 1.5 = 19.5 cm).

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From A1 to the right, set aside 1/4 of the half-circumference of the chest plus 0.5 cm. and put A2 (48:4+0.5=12.5). From A1 and A2 down, draw lines of arbitrary length.

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From A to the right, set aside 1/3 of the half-circumference of the neck plus 0.5 cm and place A3 (18:3+0.5=6.5). For figures with fat deposits in the area of ​​the seventh cervical vertebra, the neck width is increased by 0.5 cm. From A3 up, set aside 1/10 of the half-circumference of the neck plus 0.8 cm and place A4 (18:10 + 0.8 = 2.6 cm). Divide the angle at point A3 in half and draw a line. On this line, set aside 1/10 of the half-circumference of the neck minus 0.3 cm and place A5, (18:10-0.3 = 1.5 cm). Connect the resulting points A4, A5 and A with a smooth curve.

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From A1, set down 2.5 cm for normal shoulders, 3.5 cm for sloping shoulders, 1.5 cm for high ones and place point P. Connect points A4 and P. From A4, set aside the shoulder length plus 2cm for the dart and put P1 (13.5+2=15.5cm). On the resulting line A4P1 from A4 to the right, set aside 4 cm and place point O. From O down, set aside 8 cm and place O1. From O to the right, set aside 2 cm and place O2. Connect points O1 and O2. From point O1 through point O2, set aside a value equal to the segment O.O1 - 8 cm (so that the sides of the dart are the same length) and put O3. Connect points O3 and P1.

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From P down, set aside ¼ of the half-circumference of the chest plus 7 cm. (for stooped figures plus 7.5 cm, for kinky figures plus 6.5 cm) and place point G (48: 4 + 7 = 19 cm). For obese women (size 58 and larger), the armhole depth is made 1 cm less. Through G to the left and right, draw a horizontal line until it intersects with AN, denote G1, with the line of the armhole width G2, with the line BH1, denote G3.

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From G up, set aside 1/3 of the distance PG plus 2 cm and place P2 (19: 3 + 2 = 8.3). Divide the angle at point G in half and set aside 1/10 of the armhole width plus 1.5 cm and place point P3 (12.5:10 + 1.5 = 2.8 cm), divide line GG2 in half and place G4. Connect points P1, P2, P3 and G4.

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From G2 up, set aside ¼ of the half-circumference of the chest plus 5 cm (for stooped figures plus 4.5 cm, for kinky figures plus 5.5 cm) and place P4 (48: 4 = 5 = 17 cm). For overweight women (size 58 and larger), the front armhole cut is 1cm smaller. From P4 to the left, set aside 1/10 of the half-circumference of the chest and put P5 (48:10 = 4.8 cm); from G2 up, set aside 1/3 of the size of the segment G2P4 and put P6 (17:3 = 5.7). Connect P5 and P6 with a dotted line, divide in half and set aside 1 cm to the right at a right angle. Divide the angle at point G2 in half and set aside 1/10 of the width of the armhole plus 0.8 cm, put P7 (12.5:10+0.8=2.1 cm) connect P5,1,P6,P7,G4.

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From G3 up, set aside 1/2 of the half-circumference of the chest plus 1.5 cm and place B1 (48: 2 + 1.5 = 25.5 cm). For stooped figures, set aside 1/2 of the half-circumference of the chest plus 1 cm, for kinky figures plus 2 cm. For obese women (size 58 and larger), the neckline cut is 1 cm smaller. From G2 up, set aside the same amount and put B2. Connect B1 and B2. From B1 to the left, set aside 1/3 of the half-circumference of the neck plus 0.5cm and place B3 (18:3+0.5=6.5cm). From B1 down, set aside 1/3 of the half-circumference of the neck plus 2cm and place B4 (18:3+2=8cm). Connect B3 and B4 with a straight line and divide it in half. From B1 through the division point, draw a line on which set aside 1/3 of the half-circumference of the neck plus 1cm and place B5 (18:3+1=7cm). We connect points B3, B5 and B4 and get the line of the neck of the shelf.

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Center of the chest. From G3 to the left, set aside the measurement for the center of the chest and place G6. From G6, draw a line upward until it intersects with the line B1B2. At the intersection, place point B6.

From B6 down, set aside the chest height measurement and put G7

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From B6 down, set aside 1 cm and place B7. Connect points B3 and B7. Connect points B7 and P5 with a dotted line. Along line P5 B7 from point P5 to the right, set aside the length of the shoulder minus the value of the segment B3B7 minus 0.3 cm and put B8 (13.5-3-0.3 = 10.2 cm). From point G7 through point B8, draw a segment equal in length to segment G7B7 and place B9. Connect points B9 and P5.

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Start of construction. From G to the right, set aside 1/3 of the armhole width and place G5 (12.5:3 = 4.2 cm). draw a vertical line through point G5. At the intersection with the armhole line, place point P; at the intersections with the lines of the waist, hips and bottom, place points T2, B2, H2.

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Determination of the dart solution along the waist line. To the half-waist measurement, add 1cm for a loose fit (38+1=39), then subtract this value from the width of the dress along the TT1 line (53-39=14cm). We get a total dart solution of 14 cm. The size of the front dart opening is equal to 0.25 of the total dart opening (14x0.25=3.5cm), the side 0.45 (14x0.45=6.3cm), the back 0.3 (14x0.3=4.2cm).

Determining the width of the dress along the hip line. Add 2cm to the hip circumference for a loose fit (53+2=55cm). From the resulting value, subtract the width of the dress along line BB1 ​​(55-53=2cm). Distribute the result equally between the shelf and the back, i.e. 1cm each

Let's start building darts. Set aside 1 cm from B2 to the left and right and place B3 and B4. From T2 to the left and to the right, set aside half of the side dart solution (6.3:2 = 3.2) and place T3 and T4. Connect point P to points T3 and T4. Connect points T3 B4 and T4 B3 with a dotted line, divide it in half, set aside 0.5 cm from the division points to the side and connect them with a smooth curve to points B3 T4 and the other side with B4 T3.

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NOTE: If the semi-circumference of the hips plus the increase in loose fit is less than the width of the dress, the result will be negative. For example, if with a half-circumference of the chest of 48cm, the half-circumference of the hips is 50cm, then during the calculation we will get a negative value (50+2 – 53= –1cm). We distribute this value equally between the shelf and the back (-1: 2 = - 0.5 cm) and set aside B3 and B4 from point B2 to the left and right, 0.5 cm each. See figure "If the result is negative"

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If during the calculation you get zero as a result, then points B3 and B4 will coincide with point B2.
See figure "When the result is zero"

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From B1 down, set aside the length of the front waist plus 0.5 cm and put T5 (43 + 0.5 = 43.5 cm). Connect T4 and T5 with a smooth line.
From B1 down, set aside the value of the segment T1, T5 and place B5. Connect points B5 and B3 with a smooth line.

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Divide the distance G, G1 in half, mark the division point as G8. From G8, lower the line down until it intersects with line B, B1. At the intersections with the waist line and the hip line, place dots and label them T6 and B6. From T6 to the left and to the right, set aside half of the back dart solution (4.2:2 = 2.1) and place T7 and T8. From G8 down, set aside 1 cm; from B6 up, set aside 3 cm. Connect these points to T7 and T8.

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From G6 down, draw a line until it intersects with line B, B1. Mark the intersections with the lines of the waist and hips as T9 and B7. From T9 to the left and to the right, set aside half of the front dart solution (3.5:2 = 1.7) and place T10 and T11. From G7 down, and from B7 up, set aside 4 cm, place points and connect them with T10 and T11.

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Shelf bottom line. Draw lines from B3 and B4 down to the intersection of I with H, H1 and label H3 and H4. If the dress should be widened downwards from H3 and H4 to the left and right, set aside 3-7 cm and connect with B3 and B4. In the drawing these lines are shown as dotted lines. From H1 down, set aside the value of the segment T1T5 and place point H5. Connect points H3 and H5.

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All. The pattern for the base of the dress is ready.

This is the basic drawing on the basis of which you can design any style from the whole variety of dress styles.

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I wish you all creative inspiration!

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